I will quote here the discussion of buttons -

Tell me, are the buttons sewn on? Can you take a closer photo? I’d like to try it too, but I don’t know how to sew it on so it’s neat from the face.
Thank you!

The buttons there are normal. For some reason there is no photo... So I will attach a photo of the buttons from my coat.

But, frankly, for me this is a feat. Calculate a regular hexagon and display it on the front and back using all the buttons!... It doesn’t work right away. I think such sewing should be introduced as a complicating element, or better yet 2. It’s very difficult for me. If anyone knows how to do this with half a kick, please share!

Tamara, I admit honestly, this was the FIRST time I saw plastic gaskets with holes. Where do you find such consumables? It’s so good that you came to our forum; we can learn many nuances from you! It never even occurred to me that the sealing gasket could be made a decorative element. Thank you for the science!

Mikhallna, we have them in Kharkov, and even more so in Moscow. Ask Swetulekk, she seems to have used them in some products

Tanechka, thank you, I have very beautiful sew-on buttons, figured in different sizes and colors, made of plastic and metal. But the point here is that the push-buttons are ordinary, only the cap is not on top of the front fabric, but under the raincoat fabric, which is why Tamara made such a hexagon lining. Tamara, did I understand the process correctly?

No. These are ordinary sew-on buttons, as silvaveresky showed in the photo. Just a slightly different configuration. Mine are just round, hers are flowery. If they were punchy, I wouldn't bother with the hexagon. Although, it’s an idea to make punches on the edging, and it will be easier to embroider just the decor on the outside)))

Friends, hello everyone!

Although they say trouser hooks, they can be used as fasteners on a wide variety of other types of clothing - on skirts, shorts, raincoats, jackets, etc. These hooks are already much stronger, if one can say so, more weighty, than simple sewing hooks and can hold the edges of the fastener on products sewn from very durable and thick fabrics.

Like simple sew-on hooks and loops, trouser hooks are made by different manufacturers, from different metals, in a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

But trouser hooks have evolved much more than simple sewing hooks, and are already more diverse in the composition of components and methods of attachment to the product.

Today there are the following types of trouser hooks:

• sew-on trouser hook with eyes;
• sew-on trouser hook with adjustable loops;
• hook – button;
• punched trouser hook with spikes.

Sew-on trouser hook with eyes.

All those trouser hooks, sewn on with eyes, which can be purchased in various specialized stores selling sewing accessories, are very different from each other in appearance. And there may be a different number of eyes for which such a hook is attached to the product. And 4, and 5, and 6, and 7 pcs.

But all sew-on trouser hooks with eyes always consist of only two parts. The first detail is the hook itself. This is usually a differently curved metal plate. The second part is the loop. A narrow metal plate is a frame, the size of which is significantly smaller than the first part.

Any pair of such trouser hooks is sewn to the product like this. Small, round eyes of hooks are sewn with 3 - 4 stitches, and large oblong eyes with several (5 - 10) rows of parallel stitches, which are laid close to each other.

Sew-on trouser hooks with eyes are intended for making only a hidden fastener and only an overlapping fastener. And they are always sewn on so that they are not visible from the front side.

Such hooks act as an addition to the zipper at the waist line, on the belt. They protect the zipper from damage and divergence of its sides during operation.

Let's now see how such a pair is located directly on the product.

How to sew on trouser hooks correctly?

2. Then the loop needs to be hooked onto the hook. It's like they're already working.

3. And holding the loop with your fingers, close the zipper all the way.

Or vice versa, first close it and then insert a loop into the hook. Doesn't matter.

4. The “terrain” at the other end of the belt, where the loop is “reprinted”, and there is a place to which it needs to be attached. First, with pins so that the loop does not move,

and then with a needle and thread, hand-stitched stitches, it is secured to this place.

This is how a trouser hook with eyes is sewn on, in addition to the zipper, which is located on clothing models in the seam, in the center.

On trousers and other types of clothing, where the zipper is slightly shifted to the left side of the center (when viewed from the front side), such a hook is made in a similar way. Only due to the fact that the zipper in such fasteners is shifted, the loop also moves slightly to the side from it.

If such hooks completely replace a conventional fastener (buttons, snaps, zipper), then the line of engagement of the hook and loop should be located on the product along.

On men's clothing, where the edges of the fastener overlap each other from left to right, trouser hooks are made in exactly the same way, but only in a mirror image.

How many sewing trouser hooks with eyes to place on the product depends on the width of the belt, the shape and length of both of its ends.

Trouser hook with adjustable loops or adjustable hook.

A trouser hook with adjustable loops or a adjustable hook is used when there is a need to somehow influence body volumes that change several times during the day.

Still slim in the morning. And then, someone had a hearty lunch or even dinner, and by the evening the figure was also hunched over under the weight of problems and stress, and the body was swollen, in addition to everything. This volume-regulating hook will come in handy.

This is also a sewing hook. The hook itself, from the hook-regulator pair, is sewn in the same way as a sew-on hook with eyes (see above in the article). But its partner, the loop, is attached to the product by sewing rows of parallel stitches, oblong eyes along its edges.

But before sewing a loop from this pair, you need to correctly determine the place of its “registration”. This is done in the same way as with the “single” loop described above, but you need to focus on the first loop from the hook. Its location needs to be adjusted to the hook. After all, if you place it more to the left than necessary, then it will not be able to hold the lightning, and it will be subject to increased loads.

And if you need to tighten the waist, then another, next loop is “hooked” on the hook. A few centimeters of loosening the tightness of the clothing will not affect the zipper in any way.

Hook - button.

The hook-button installed on the front side looks exactly like a button, but works like a full-fledged hook.

Hook-buttons are sold in specialized stores, in blister packs, in a set designed for approximately one product and with a special tool for installing them. Or separately, piece by piece and without tools.

Even without a special tool, you can try to install this type of hook yourself, using a simple set of tools that every home probably has.

Or you can play it safe and give such a hook or button to a specialized atelier or workshop to install it on a product.

Punchy trouser hook, with spikes.

Very often sewing lovers ask themselves: “ How to properly sew on a trouser hook with spikes? I have a short and comprehensive answer to this question. No way!!! It’s easy to sew it on!

Unlike all previous types of trouser hooks, this type is attached to the product in a completely different way, just in a radically different way. The points of the spikes are used to hammer holes into the material, and then the spikes are bent onto decorative overlays.

Punched trouser hooks with spikes may differ from each other in design and number of spikes. There may be 2, 3, or 4.

But all sets of punched trouser hooks with spikes consist of four parts.

1. hook;
2. a loop;
3. decorative cover for hook;
4. decorative cover for loop.

Actually, if “correctly”, then the trouser hook on the spikes is installed on the trousers before finishing the belt on them. The location of the hook and loop is determined and pads are installed inside the waistband.

so then, on the finished product, the hook and loop are inside and are not visible from the front side.

But installing a hook with spikes in this way is such a tedious task that requires calculations and precision. What if there is a mistake? And the holes are already pierced!

Look at the decorative hook and loop overlays. They are so neat and very cute. So why not install the hook on the spikes so that the hook cover is visible from the front side of the product. This installation of the hook on the spikes does not require difficult calculations.

Of course, it will be best if a specialist in this field, from an atelier or sewing workshop, undertakes to install the hook with spikes, and is also the happy owner of a press with a set of special attachments - punches - for this business.

But you can also try installing such a hook at home. It is very easy to install. The most difficult thing is to carefully bend the spikes with home tools.

And the trouser hook on the spikes is placed on the product in the same way as all other types of hooks described above. First, the hook itself is placed on one side of the fastener, and then the loop is “adjusted” to it on the other side.

All the best! Sincerely, Milla Sidelnikova!

Hook and eye are used to fasten overlapping edges of fabric so that the join is not noticeable. In this article you will learn how to sew a hook and eyelet. At the beginning of the work, secure the double thread to the fabric under the hook for strength with two closely spaced stitches in the opposite direction. The hook is positioned towards the edge of the fabric, and its tip should not reach the edge by 3 mm.

How to sew a hook with a rounded eyelet?

Sew around each hole on the hook, being careful not to pierce all the way through the fabric. Make three stitches over the neck of the hook to attach it, and a few stitches in the opposite direction next to the hook.

Position the loop so that the curve extends 3mm beyond the edge of the fabric. Fasten the thread. Sew a loop through each hole and through each edge of the fabric.

Fasten the hook to the loop. The processed edges of the two parts of the product should meet very evenly so that the fabric does not bulge and parts of the hook are not visible from the front side.

Straight loop

Sew the hook to the wrong side of the overlapping edge so that its tips do not reach the edge of the fabric by 3.mm. Close the opening and mark the location of the eyelet with a pin on the right side of the exposed bottom edge (top).

Sew through the first hole in the loop. Push the needle between the layers of fabric to the second hole and sew through it. Push the needle into the location of the next stitch and stitch. Fasten the thread (top).

Hook with crossbar

Place the hook on the back of the overlapping stitch 3mm from the edge so that the crossbar is covered when the hook is closed. Make several stitches through each hole.

Close the cut and place the ends of the waistband. Place the bar on the front side of the waistband so that it becomes the paired part of the hook. Sew through the holes and secure with a few stitches.

Covered hook and eye

Covered hooks and eyelets add a neat finish and are used where they can be seen. Sew on the hook with a thread of a suitable color, then use the same thread to sew around the eyelet (above), without catching the fabric under the crossbar.

Stitching for buttonholes

Buttonhole stitch provides a warped look to hooks, loops, bars and snaps. Position the clasp as usual and sew around the hole using closely spaced buttonhole stitches (top), pulling the knots into the fabric.

How to sew hooks beautifully and correctly? Where and when is this needed? Let's consider some points:
— in finished products: skirt, coat, trousers;
- in linen products -

In finished products: wedding dress, skirt, coat, trousers.

Hooks and loops are used in products if:
— an imitation of a fastener on a dress is necessary. Let me explain - decorative buttons are sewn on for beauty, and underneath there is a hook-and-loop closure
- when it is difficult to choose buttons to match the color of the product;
- when the fabric of the product is very thick: drape, denim;
- in men's trousers;
— when your machine does not perform the “loop” function;
- or in addition to a fastener to strengthen a specific place on the product. Let me explain: the woman has large breasts and wears tight blouses. As a rule, the clasp diverges at the chest line. This is where a hook and loop is needed.

What types of hooks and loops are there?

Various sizes and shapes; made of metal and plastic; covered decorative; for linen and outerwear, also for hand-made buttonholes,

It’s easier with hooks; they are mostly not visible on the front side. But ready-made loops do not always fit. Then we make it by hand. How to do it? We count the width of the loop and the number of loops, multiply this figure by 4, and get the required length for making the cord for the loop. The length can be longer, cutting off the excess is not difficult. If only one loop is needed, use 10cm for calculation. Watch the video tutorial below.

How to sew hooks and loops on linens?

If you sew bras and panties for yourself, then you have encountered. It is often not possible to select a ready-made bra clasp based on color, length and number of rows of loops. It’s very easy to do it yourself, get a FREE master class on making a pattern for a fastener and the sequence of sewing a fastener
It will not be difficult for you to lengthen and calculate a pattern of any width and any number of loops. It is necessary to take into account the distance between hooks and loops on both sides, and leave 07cm-1cm for the width of the pattern.
Speaking of underwear. Sewing linen is not difficult. By studying my lessons you can have a wonderful collection of underwear.

Write what topics interest you.

Hi all!

A long time ago, when for me “all the trees were big,” I often happened to meet such aunties, on whose skirts hooks acted as fasteners. Large hooks sewn on with thick, coarse threads. Then, not understanding anything, I thought that the clasp with hooks was due to laziness and poverty.

In general, this is neither true nor true. Yes, because during the times of total Soviet shortage there was nothing else, and even in sufficient quantity and variety. You can’t buy buttons; buttons are something from the world of science fiction.

But not like that, because as I got older I realized that sewing hooks correctly and neatly is not so easy.

Many years have passed since then, but the hooks are still alive! And they will live for a very, very long time! Because the hook closure is very strong and reliable.

Now, in our time, I have radically changed my attitude towards hooks. And I consider them full members of the “fittings” community.

Now sewing lovers have another problem, no less difficult - the problem of choice. The problem is to choose correctly what is needed, what is suitable.

Well, it's time to get to know hooks better. There are hooks - simple sew-on, trouser and fur hooks.

Simple sew-on hooks.

Ordinary traditional sewing hooks are fighters of the “invisible front”; they are never put on display.

They are designed to make a hidden fastener, which in no case should be visible from the front side of the product.

As a rule, sewing hooks are placed on the product just above the zipper (skirts and trousers without a belt) or on the waist line, on the belt itself. The placement of the hook just above the zipper is done to ensure that the hook will not allow the zipper slider to fall under downward pressure and will not allow the sides of the zipper to spread out arbitrarily during movement.

At the waist line, sewing hooks play the role of an additional safety detail for the zipper, and they also perform the task of a full-fledged fastener on the belt. In general, hooks can completely replace the traditional row of buttons or a zipper.

The most common traditional sewing hooks have also not been spared by technological progress. Sew-on hooks are produced by different manufacturers, from different metals. For example, brass, nickel, mild steel, all kinds of metal compounds (alloys), etc.

On sale you can find hooks of the most varied shapes, colors and sizes. Black, white, gray, silver, gold, blackened, nickel-plated, large and small, familiar shapes and curved in a new, modern way.

The size of the sewing hook is determined by the length of both (interlocked) parts of the hook, directly by the hook and loop itself. For example, sewing hooks can be 1, 1.4, 1.8, 3, 3.5 cm long, etc.

Hooks are available in several sizes. But when choosing hooks, I think it is unlikely that it is very important what size is written on the package. I believe that there is no need to dwell on this. It will be enough to visually compare the appearance and size of the hook with the part on which it will be “placed”.

But the material from which the hook is made is very important to choose correctly. After all, the finished item will need to be washed. So, to prevent hooks from rusting from ruining the life of either the finished product or its owner, you need to choose hooks from materials that do not corrode and do not rust. It could be nickel, brass or some other metal with a corrosion protection coating.

In general, choose hooks from manufacturers you trust, whose products you are already familiar with and have worked with. Or those strangers, but who do not hide any information about their products (hooks), but on the contrary, convey it to the consumer in every possible way. For example, on packages.

Large sewing hooks are sold in one pair, and smaller ones in packs, in blisters or sewn onto cardboard strips. From which customers cut off the required number of hooks and eyelets.

How to properly sew sewing hooks and loops?

Despite the fact that sewing hooks sometimes look quite different from each other, the technology for sewing them to a product is very similar.

1. Both the hook and the loop, these two parts of the sewing hook, are placed on the product invariably horizontally and only on the wrong side or under the “cover” of other parts.

Consider this option of sewing a hook onto the waistband of a skirt.

As everyone knows, on women's clothing models the right edge of the fastener is always on the left. Therefore, one part of the sewing hook, the hook itself, should be located on the product (if you look at the finished product from the front) on the left, on the inside of the belt, and the other part, the loop, on the right. Then the hook will easily hook into the loop with a natural movement of the hand along the fastener.

2. The threads for sewing on such a hook are matched to the color of the main fabric. Under the thickness of the thread, the appropriate size so that the punctures from the needle are small. You cannot tie a knot at the end of the thread.

3. To ensure that there are no traces of the presence of sewing hooks on the front side of the product, you need to use the tip of a needle, with a thread tucked in and folded in half, to penetrate into the material and make one stitch so that the end of the thread is lost in the material. And then, having “stomped” on the chosen place, you need to secure yourself on it by making a few stitches

4. Both the hook and the loop are sewn to the product in two ways. Which one to choose depends on the shape of the hook. After all, as you can see by looking at the picture in the article above, hooks and loops come with closely spaced base sides and widely spaced ones.

1st option (1 in the picture below). Sew in three places. 3-4 securing stitches are made into both holes on both pieces and 3-4 stitches across, and the two sides of the hook and loop base are sewn together.

2nd option (2 in the picture below). Sew in four places. Just as in the previous version, 3–4 securing stitches are made into both holes on both parts, and then with 3–4 stitches across, the base hooks and loops are sewn, but each side separately.

5. Once again, making a few stitches back with the needle, to secure the ends of the thread, you need to take it out of the material far to the side and carefully cut it close to the surface of the material.

6. Sometimes, in order to make the clasp on sewing hooks even less noticeable or more plastic, flexible, instead of a metal loop, you can make a loop of thread in pair with the hook. You can read how it is done

But the clasp on the model can be fastened end-to-end, or maybe overlapping. The sewing hook on these two types of models is located differently.

How to correctly position sewing hooks and loops on models with a butt fastener?

On models with a butt fastener, the hook itself is positioned so that its top is up to 3 mm from the edge of the fabric. And the other part of the sewing hook, the loop, should protrude beyond the edge of the fabric by the same distance.

This is done so that when the loop and hook are connected (interlocked with each other), the edges of the fastener are butted together.

How to correctly position sewing hooks and loops on models with an overlap fastener?

If sewing hooks perform the task of a full-fledged fastener on a model, then, like other ordinary fasteners (buttons, snaps or zippers), sewing hooks should also be located on the product.

If the sewing hooks will be located on the waist line, on the belt, the edges of which are overlapped, then the first thing to start with is to sew one part of the sewing hook - the hook itself, on the left, inner side of the belt (if you look at the fastener from the front side) . It must be sewn from the short transverse edge of the belt, at a distance that is equal to the length of the loop.

Hook the second part onto the sewn hook, and the loop of the sewing hook. And holding them as stretched as possible in different directions, as if they were already working,

close the zipper and look at the end of the belt on the right side, where is the place where the loop should be located.

And use pins to attach the loop to this place.