Nenets women's costume, 68th edition.

Dolls in folk costumes No. 68. Nenets women's costume.

A wonderful doll, another “winter” doll in the series - she is one of those whom we have already seen on the DeAgostini stand, now we know exactly who she is.

According to clarification from Tatyana (who lives in the Nenets Autonomous Okrug), the doll is called - Nenka.

A doll in fur shoes and a warm winter suit with a headdress.

The set of women's clothing includes a swing-out double fur winter parka - pants, side skirts and a hat.

Dolls in folk costumes No. 68. Nenets women's costume, photo of the doll.

Side view. The hood is glued and cannot be removed. Just like mittens and boots.

The women's parka is hinged and can be fur up or down. The upper part is made from calf skins with smooth pile. Mittens made of kamus and an arctic fox collar are sewn to the parka. A parka made from white or colorful skins is considered elegant. The parka is decorated with ornamental stripes made using the fur mosaic technique. The autumn-summer clothing of the northern Khanty, like that of the Nenos, is yagushka, and in its cut it looks the same as winter clothing, but is made of cloth.

Pima are Nenets national fur shoes that Nenets women sew themselves. Pimas are very comfortable shoes for long walks, warm and light. Pimas consist of a stocking sewn with fur on the inside and a lower part made of camus with the fur on the outside.

Nenets women's winter clothing comes in two types, differing both in cut and in the nature of decoration and decoration. Women's outer winter clothing (the Russian name in the West is Panitsa, beyond the Urals - Yagushka), unlike men's, has a slit in the front. Currently, it is found in two types, which differ both in cut and in the nature of decoration and decoration.

Panitsa is usually worn with a belt, with the right hem slightly overlapping the left. The belt is woven from multi-colored threads up to three meters long; the belt ends with tassels at both ends.

Sidor is a headdress that is usually sewn from red cloth and decorated with beads; the sidor serves as an elegant addition to a costume. Nenki women combed their hair in the middle and braided it into two braids. The Nenets women's hat is very elegant and warm due to double fur inside and outside.

Nenets folklore often says that a well-living person is one who has warm clothes, and a happy person is one who has a second set of clothes in reserve.

Men's clothing consists of malitsa and fur shoes. Malitsa - blind (without a cut) clothing, sewn from deer skins with fur inside. In cut, it resembles a spacious shirt, reaching to the knees, and the front side is somewhat shorter. Malitsa has a sewn hood that replaces a hat. The hood is usually sewn from fawn in two layers (with the fur out and in). Camus mittens are tightly sewn to the sleeves with the fur facing out. On the wrist, above the palm, they have a hole so that you can free your hands from the mittens if necessary. The hem of the malitsa is trimmed with a 20-25 cm high edge made from the skin of a large autumn deer.

Kaninsky and Kolguevsky malitsa are narrower in cut and form-fitting. The hood is replaced with a separate hat, and a stand-up collar is sewn along the edge of the neckline.

The malitsa is worn with a belt, an overlap is formed over the waist, then the bosom replaces the pocket and is a kind of warehouse: a tobacco pouch with tobacco and a pipe are kept there. The belt is the main attribute of Nenets men’s clothing at any time of the year. On the left, a knife with a sheath is suspended on chains from the belt, as the reindeer herder sits on the sledge on the left side, on the right is a sharpening stone in an elegant leather case, on the back is a bear fang, which serves as a talisman against evil spirits and, according to the Nenets, brings good luck in the hunt. The base of the belt itself is made of rawhide and decorated with copper plaques of various shapes or buttons - syar sya - metal decorations that serve as amulets, their number should be odd. The belt is usually placed near the bed. According to the Nenets, the belt indicates the connection of the sacred (pure) top and the material (bodily) bottom. A belt is one of the attributes of material well-being and an element of clothing decoration. The belt is worn from the age of five until the end of life.

In cold weather and snowstorms, the Nenets wear a sovik over the malitsa. There are summer and winter owls. The winter owl was sewn from the fur of a three-month-old calf - the fur of an autumn slaughter. This clothing differs from the malitsa and is sewn with the fur facing out, the pile down, from the thick skin of autumn or winter deer. The sovik does not have mittens, but has a hood trimmed with long-pile deer fur or arctic fox tails. It is worn without a belt; it is clothing for the street, and is usually not brought into the tent, but left on the sledge. Summer owls were made from cloth of different colors (black, grey, blue, green), and modern Nenets ones were also made from tarpaulin.

Pants (pi"mya) were sewn from fawn or flank of a fawn with fur to the body. The upper part of the pants did not have a slit; they were supported at the waist with the help of a rovduga restraint, sometimes the straps were simply sewn on and tied. The legs of the pants went down well below the knees and were tucked into fur stockings .

Nenets footwear consists of fur libts, which were made from autumn deer skin, and pims.

Pimas are indispensable shoes in northern climates. They are sewn from kamus, skins of deer legs. The soles of pimas are made from brushes - the skins between the hoofs of a deer's legs. The hair on the brush is hard and elastic, thanks to which the snow does not stick to the sole. Pimas are tied under the knee with a strap or cord (teem), woven from purchased dyed wool. Pima are decorated with stripes of white and black camus with pile from top to bottom. Stripes were made in the central part of the pimas in a horizontal direction above the knee and in the middle of the lower leg.

Men's work shoes - tobaks and tobars. They were also made from kamus, with the fur facing out, but without any decoration.

Traditional women's clothing is preserved among reindeer herders even today - it is so well adapted to the harsh climate of the Arctic, riding sledges, as well as the tastes of the Nenets.

In winter, Nenki wear panitsa - women's outerwear with a slit in the front, decorated with stripes of ornaments made of white and dark kamus, and inserts of colored cloth. The panic is two-layered, it is sewn with fur inside and out. It is hinged, its floors are connected end-to-end using leather ties called sis. Camus mittens with a hole for removing hands are sewn to the sleeves.

Women usually decorate panitsa with fur mosaics. These are compositions of pieces of fur contrasting in color, cut out according to a template and sewn together in such a way that a single surface with a dark pattern on a light background is obtained.

The motifs of the patterns, their compositional structure, and colors are borrowed from the natural world around them. Each pattern has its own name: “Beautiful Antlers”, “Deer Antlers”, “Hare Ears”, “Fox Elbow”, “Heads”, “Plagues”.

There are the following types of panics:
. Kaninskaya panic. The base up to the waist is sewn from pieces of squirrel and beaver, inserting a piece of multi-colored cloth into the seams. The ends of the flaps hang freely along the chest, back and sleeves. The sleeves are straight, tapering strongly towards the cuff, wide at the armhole. It has no seam on the shoulders. The lower part of the panic from the waist consists of several horizontal stripes, first of deer, then of dog or fox fur. In addition to the collar, the floors and hem of the panic are lined with arctic fox or fox fur.
Kolguevskie panitsa are mainly sewn from deer skin and deer kamus. In contrast to the Kanin Panitsa, the skin of a non-blue is selected for the hem.
The Bolshezemelskaya panica is made entirely from reindeer fur - non-vomiting. The stripes of patterns are sewn in advance before sewing the panic, for which high-quality summer camus is collected over several seasons. All main seams of the ornaments are covered with bright multi-colored cloth.
The Malozemelskaya panica differs from the Bolshezemelskaya panica in that its hem is slightly higher.

The summer panic is called “noy pany”, i.e. cloth clothes. It should be noted that such clothes are often richly decorated with sewn-in ornaments made of colored cloth on the shoulders, along the sides and cuffs of the sleeves.

Panitsa is usually worn with a belt, with the right hem slightly overlapping the left. The belt is woven from multi-colored threads up to three meters long, and ends with tassels at both ends. The belt buckle is a copper ring with two or three bars located simultaneously horizontally and vertically.

Women's winter shoes - pimas, like men's ones, are sewn from reindeer camus with the fur facing out. The cut of women's pimas is somewhat different from the cut of men's: the front stripe of the camis is much narrower and ends with a narrow toe. Unlike men's pimas, women's ones are never tied under the knee. White pimas are considered beautiful, and most often they are sewn by combining white and dark kamus.

Women's headdresses - bonnet, Kolguev hat with long ears. A hood is a skin with emphasized eye sockets, taken from the head of a deer.

Shoes - kitties, bokari, pima.

The goose and the little girl boast in front of the frog mamlas wrote in August 26th, 2014

Gives warmth
How they make fur coats from reindeer skins in Yamal

The Yamal Peninsula freezes through during the winter. To escape the cold, the inhabitants of the tundra sew warm clothes from natural materials - reindeer skins. Yagushka, a women's winter coat, is a real work of art. It sometimes takes local craftswomen several years to make it.

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Minus fifty on the thermometer and north wind. This is the winter temperature in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug. In the cities of the region, people are trying to go out less. But the tundra dwellers, who still lead a traditional way of life, have to not only leave the plague, but also work in the bitter cold in the open air. Northerners have long learned to deal with the cold. Even if not for long, the Khanty and Nenets are saving themselves from the frost by wearing clothes made from natural materials - for example, from reindeer skins. In their historical development, the indigenous northerners created an original culture adapted to harsh climatic conditions.

Yagushka - women's winter coat

This is a non-conveyor product, which is sewn according to one pattern and in different sizes. A good craftswoman in Yamal can sew a yagushka in a year or two. It takes about two and a half reindeer skins to make a winter coat. But the amount of consumables may vary depending on the size of the customer. The yagushka is sewn only by hand. Its cost is from 80 thousand rubles. Externally, the frog looks like a double-sided fur coat with a fused hood and mittens. The inside of the fur coat is made from winter deer skin, which has longer pile. This means that the owner will be warmer in it. On the outside, autumn deer fur is used, which is shorter. The decoration of the frog is the paws of fawns, cloth ornaments, and beads.

- Dressing hides and leather, processing, cutting and sewing clothes, artistic decoration - girls in herds learn to do all this work by the age of 14. They take cutting and sewing courses every day. The teacher is the mother or grandmother. Each element in the traditional clothing of the northern peoples is filled with symbolic content. Ornamental decoration of clothing is not just decoration. Each figure symbolizes northern nature with its inhabitants. Rows of dark, symmetrical appendages rising above a jagged stripe are called “rabbit ears,” and there are also “sable” and “deer horns.” With an experienced eye, it is easy to determine whether the color of the material is chosen correctly, the corners of the patterns are stitched and where and under what conditions this product is stored.
Liliya Longortova, dresser

Expert opinion

— The original folk art of the Nenets is most fully and succinctly reflected in fur products, primarily in clothing. Well-known specialist in the field of material culture N.F. Prytkova distinguishes three ancient layers in the composition of Nenets clothing: Old Samoyed (clothing without structural longitudinal seams, “wrapped”), Ugric (tunic-like cut), Ancient Arctic, aboriginal (close cut). Men's and women's clothing is a malitsa without a hood, with a collar, and a women's fur coat without constructive vertical seams made from the skins of forest animals, trimmed with dog fur. Now it exists only in the extreme western areas of Nenets settlement, although in the 17th-19th centuries and occasionally at the beginning of the 20th century it was widespread in all groups up to the Yenisei. Later it was replaced by a malitsa with a hood and a fur coat made of deer fur with structural vertical seams. The Nenets still have remnants of men's swinging clothing. Up to the present day, men wear clothes in the tent, similar in cut to women's. Due to the need to breastfeed children, women's loose clothing lasted longer. However, now that fur items have become streetwear, Nenki in some areas are beginning to wear malitsa.
Antonina Syazi, Director of the Scientific Center for Humanitarian Research of Indigenous Peoples of the North of the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug

In everyday life in cities, regional centers and villages, sedentary northerners rarely wear such clothes. Firstly, this fur coat is very heavy. Secondly, it is not entirely convenient for modern life. But when residents of the tundra and remote villages come to villages and cities, it’s easy to pick them out from the crowd. In the tundra, national clothing made from reindeer skins is not a fashion statement, a luxury, but a means of combating the cold.
Yagushka is a very beautiful type of outerwear. Her models are almost all the same. Home-grown fashion designers do not dare to destroy the traditions of sewing fur coats. But only a talented craftswoman can sew a beautiful and durable yagushka. Experienced people see the hand of a master and can determine the handwriting of a craftswoman by the stitches and colors used. Such a fur coat can last a couple of years for going out, and after that women wear it every day. After all, winter in Yamal lasts for nine months in a row. Such things are stored folded in log barns - from rodents, moths and the sun, because exposure to direct sunlight causes lint to fall out. It is worth noting that to sew clothes from natural materials - deer skins - Yamal craftswomen use large needles and deer sinews as thread.

Men's winter fur coat - malitsa

The technology for sewing a malitsa is not much different from creating a yagushka. Malitsa is sewn with the pile inside. In severe frosts, men wear a “goose” on top. Goose is outerwear made from deer fur, but is sewn with the fur facing out. So it turns out the same yagushka as for women, but a prefabricated version. If you want, take off the goose with the fur out and stay in the malitsa - like in a sheepskin coat. For beauty, as well as to protect the fur product from dirt, men wear a “topper”. It is sewn from thick fabric.

- By the way the frog is decorated, you can find out where the woman comes from, what nationality - for example, nenas used to not really like to decorate their outfits, frequent migrations did not contribute to this. But Khanty women, since they more often led a sedentary lifestyle, were always willing to spend time making their clothes beautiful and weaving bright jewelry around their necks. But times have changed, and now the Nenets also have a couple of frogs in stock, richly decorated with patterned embroidery. Some patterns are borrowed from neighboring people, others are of Samoyed origin.
Antonida Teshido, fur tailor

The most beautiful frogs and geese are made from white or sika deer. The ornament and pattern are better visible on them. Children's frogs and fur coats for the elderly are decorated with simple ornaments. Young women decorate their yagushkas with bright prints, while middle-aged women decorate them with more complex patterns. Making outerwear in Yamal is part of the culture of the northern peoples. Knowledge, skills and abilities are passed on by the Nenets and Khanty from generation to generation. For many women in Yamal, this is not just a hobby, but also an additional source of income. It is worth adding that the fashion for such types of clothing in Yamal does not change. Northerners honor traditions, and so far they have not let them down, but only warmed them from the severe frosts.

Residents of the European part of Russia are more familiar with the industrial method of making fur coats.

Skin dressing

Taisiya Laptander, Ksenia Gagai
Photo: Tatyana Parshukova, SmartNews

TREASURES OF CULTURE

For a northern person, clothing has served as a kind of “warm home” for a long time. It warms and protects him from severe frosts; it is not scary to stay in the cold for a long time or travel long distances. This is probably why northerners from ancient times endowed their clothes with a special meaning. They still treat her with reverence.

The Nenets usually say: to get to know a person, you don’t have to eat a pound of salt with him, it’s enough to sleep under his parka or walk around in his clothes.

In Taimyr villages and in the vast tundra, every woman is a skilled craftswoman. One masters the art of embroidery with deer hair, the other masters the technique of fur mosaic, and the third is a master of bead embroidery. Nenets clothing is very labor-intensive in manufacturing technology. By the light of a kerosene lamp or an ordinary candle, a Nenets woman sits in a chum and with her hands, hardened from cleaning fish and dressing skins, without a sewing machine, scissors or factory-made threads, she sews and embroiders incomparable masterpieces of national art, putting her whole soul into the work. The unique creations of the hands of Nenets craftswomen are kept in many collections of museums around the world and adorn the most prestigious international exhibitions.

Men's clothing

Nenets men's and women's clothing differ from each other in appearance and cutting technology.

The basic clothing of reindeer herders leading a nomadic lifestyle includes the sokui malitsa and bokari shoes. Malitsa is the only casual clothing the Nenets wear. It is put on with the fur inside. Malitsa is a wide garment with a hat and mittens sewn onto it. Length - below the knees. The hood can be easily removed from the head and folded back if necessary. The cut of the malitsa is quite wide. The front and back are sewn from single pieces of skin; they are slightly flared downwards. The sleeves widen towards the armholes. Mittens made of kamus (skin from deer legs) are sewn to the ends of the sleeves with the fur facing out. For the back wall of the mitten, use the upper part of the camus: there the pile is longer. And for the front - from the bottom, where the pile is stronger. A rectangle measuring 10 by 15 cm is sewn to the mouth of the sleeves, in the area of ​​the hand. A gap is formed between the mitten and the rectangle through which the hand can pass freely. The Nenets people even have a riddle about the male malitsa: “You enter one hole, you come out of three.”

The malitsa's hood is cut out using the cap-hat technology, and it is sewn from black summer skin. Using a threaded ribbon, you can widen or narrow the hole framing his face. First, a narrow strip of cloth is sewn to the bottom of the malitsa, then a 45 cm wide strip of summer deer skin is attached with the fur facing out. This part is called “pandas”, which means “hem” in Nenets. At the junction of the upper part of the malitsa and the “panda”, to give the clothes a more beautiful look, strips of multi-colored cloth, as well as white and black fur, are sewn. On top of the malitsa they put on a “maltsa tanga” - a cover made of beautiful cloth or fine fabric that protects the inner skin (bottom layer) from dampness and dirt.

To sew such a malitsa, three fawns are slaughtered in October.

The malitsa is belted with a woven beaded or leather belt, decorated with copper buttons and plaques of various shapes. The Nenets belt is a symbol of dignity and courage. A scabbard is attached to it on copper chains. A suede case for a grindstone and amulets - bear fangs on chains - are sewn to the bottom of the belt. Leather belts are decorated with copper buttons and various pendants.

Before Russian traders arrived in the tundra, the Nenets’ clothing set also included trousers made of rovduga (deer suede). They were made from calf skins. However, in the second half of the 19th century, purchased clothing came into use.

In frost and blizzards, men put on a “sokui” (“sovik-sook”) over the malitsa, which is slightly different in cut from the malitsa. This is a close-fitting, knee-length garment without a cut. It is much longer and wider than the malitsa. The back of the head of the sokui is cut together with the hood, and mittens are not sewn to it. Along the edge of the hood is a trim of arctic fox tails or thick-haired white deer fur. This is “yourself var” - the edge of the hood. A hem made of white deer fur is sewn to the bottom of the “owl” - “sook ngeso”. The “owl” is put on with the fur facing out and not belted. “Sovik” made of white or motley deer fur is the elegant, festive clothing of the Nenets.

“Sokui” is street clothes; it is never carried into the tent. It is decorated with tassels made of long strips of colored cloth with strips of fur sewn on them. In case of unforeseen stops along the way, the “sokui” serves as a sleeping bag for the prudent Nenets. They lie directly on the snow. Sewing these clothes takes four skins from six-month-old fawns, and one skin from an adult deer is used for the hem.

Men's footwear

Men's shoes - "bokari" - are made from kamus. They differ from women's shoes by horizontal stripes of white camus with a piping of multi-colored cloth. This stripe is a continuation of the toe part of men's shoes. The width of the bow of the “bokar” is 7-8 cm. The camus is cut in half, if necessary, the width is increased. The pile must look at each other. And in the center of the sock, just below the instep of the leg, small inserts of a trapezoidal curved shape are sewn. They are sewn to the sock using strips of fur.

It takes 16 deer legs to make “bokari”. The tops of the shoes are long, the top edge is cut off at an angle, and fur stockings are put on inside - “chizhi”, the cut of which is similar to the cut of “bokars”. For the sole, they use fur from the frontal part of a deer's head or a brush - skin from a deer's hooves. “Bokari” are attached to the belt with the help of ribbons, and tied under the knees with beautiful laces woven from multi-colored threads. The Nenets, who are engaged in marine hunting, used to have “bokari” made of seal skin, sewn with the fur facing out. They were worn instead of rubber boots.

“Chizhi” - fur stockings - are sewn from calf skin and worn with the fur inside. On the inner side they are decorated with strips of beautiful fabric or cloth. Long ribbons are sewn to the top of the stockings from the front side, with the help of which they are tied to the rings sewn to the belt.

Elegant, festive shoes are usually sewn from white or colorful deer feet, decorating them with various ornaments.

Summer clothes for men

Outerwear in summer is a worn malitsa, almost devoid of fur. Shoes – old “bokari”. Once upon a time, Nenets men wore special, elegant suede shoes in the summer - “tangad”. It was sewn from rovduga or from durable thin skins of an adult deer, slaughtered in June. At this time, almost all the old fur of animals comes off, and the new one has not yet had time to grow. "Tangad" has the appearance of a stocking with a piston-shaped head and sole. In order to attach the sole to the nose, it is pulled together with tendon threads and only then sewn. The bottom of the “tangad” is laced with long rope ribbons. A triangular wedge painted red is sewn into the front part. Along the seam connecting the bootleg to the head of the shoe, rope loops are sewn into which a strap is threaded, serving as a tie. Several suede straps are sewn on the front side of summer shoes at knee level. Large beads are threaded into them for decoration. Men's cross-country shoes differ from women's only in size.

In warm weather, men wear a soku made of cloth or canvas. It is cut without shoulder seams. A gusset is made under the armpit and the shoulder seams are sewn. The solid back part of the hood is cut out from the front part at the collar. A rectangular strip is sewn to it, the edges of which are processed so that you can see the colored braid that serves as decoration. The hem of the clothing is trimmed with a strip of cloth of a different color. In the Nenets wardrobe there is also a festive “sokui” - “noy maltsa”.

Women's clothing

A Nenets woman spends most of her time in the tent. Smart and warm women's clothing is usually kept in cargo sleds, taken out from there before moving to another place or before a long journey to visit or for fuel. The set of women's clothing includes a swing-out double fur winter parka - “pans”, “bokari” and a hat. The women's parka differs from the men's malitsa in appearance and cut. It takes five deer skins. The women's parka is hinged and sewn with fur up and down. The upper part is made from calf skins with smooth pile. Mittens made of kamus and an arctic fox collar are sewn onto it. A parka made from white or colorful skins is considered elegant. A wide strip of dark-colored fur is sewn along the hem of the parka. The edges and hem of the parka are trimmed with narrow strips of cloth, and the same strip is attached to the shoulder seams. A lining made of deer, arctic fox or hare skins is sewn inside the parka. The parka is decorated with ornamental stripes made using the fur mosaic technique of dark and white casing. Its straight floors meet, but are not wrapped, but tied with suede or cloth ribbons. Short straight sleeves with gusset tapering to a cuff. Scarves, multi-colored shawls, and belts woven from multi-colored threads are a beautiful addition to the park. Such clothes are intended for long trips, sleeping, chopping wood, for holidays and everyday life.

Hats

Unlike men's, women's hats are not sewn onto the parka. A woman's headdress is a fur bonnet, which consists of three parts. One wide strip of fur in two parts runs across the parietal part of the head. For the central part, use the skin taken from the head of a deer. The seams are edged with colored cloth and complemented with hanging multi-colored ribbons made of cloth. The stripe that separates the side parts of the hat from the central part is a continuous geometric pattern made of fur mosaic. A lush fur trim from an arctic fox tail is sewn along the edge of the hood, around the face. The Nenets women's hat is very elegant and warm due to double fur inside and outside. Metal pendants with a slotted and relief pattern, connected to each other with a narrow strap, are attached to the bottom of the hat on rope laces. They serve as decoration and also to ensure that the hat does not swell in the wind and sits tightly on the head. When walking, the pendants emit a melodic chime. By pulling the wings of the hat back, the pendants press the hat tightly to the fur coat, and the cold does not get under it, so a Nenets woman always feels warm and cozy in such a hat.

Women's shoes

Women's shoes are cut differently from men's. In addition, unlike men, Nenets women do not tie the bokari under the knee with straps, but tie them with rope ribbons to a narrow strap on the hips. Two rings are sewn to it - “temetsya”, to which fur stockings and the side skirts themselves are attached using ribbons. In summer they wear worn out winter shoes.

Summer parka - “yagushka”

A woman's summer clothing is often a worn-out parka. But mostly Nenets women sew a parka made of cloth for the summer - a “yagushka”. A distinctive feature of such clothing is the presence of horizontal structural divisions; even the sleeves do not have seams on the shoulders: they are sewn together with the shoulder part of the parka. The main details of the “yagushka” can be red and green, and the fronts and hem, as well as the cuffs of the sleeves, can be blue and black. The cloth parka is very widened due to inserted wedges, the sleeves narrow downwards.

Multi-colored stripes of cloth, sewn on top of each other parallel to the hem, decorate the clothes. Several of the same strips are sewn along each hem and along the cuffs: to the edge of the hem, shelves and sleeves. Some craftswomen skillfully decorate their parkas with multi-colored cloth.

Children's clothing is no different from adult clothing. She repeats it completely. Mothers skillfully decorate clothes for their children with fur ornaments, cloth appliqués made of multi-colored fabric, ribbons and beads.

All the beauty of the creation of the hands of Nenets women is in the tailoring of national clothes. Usually, by the way a tundra inhabitant is dressed, one can assess what his wife is like. For centuries, there has been a rule in the tundra: the skill of his wife is determined by the clothes of a man. A talented woman dresses up her children so that you can’t take your eyes off them, and her husband walks around in his clothes with his head held high. Only two colors – white and black – are used by Nenets craftswomen to decorate clothes. They symbolize two elements of the universe - Earth and Sky.

Over time, national clothing may become a thing of the past. But in Taimyr there are craftswomen who give old clothes a new life, carefully introducing modern style into traditions: adding fashionable details, combining the beauty, practicality and affordability of traditional clothing.

Winter has come into its own, and although in the west of Russia it is still possible to wear a coat with reservations, we decided to turn to secret knowledge - the traditional clothing of the peoples of the Far North. How long can you use the equipment of lumberjacks and polar explorers? What kind of heritage is this? Whether it’s the Aleuts, Chukchi, Eskimos and others like them - the indigenous population of the most severe climatic zones of our planet.

Komi, Khanty, etc.

Eskimos

Kukhlyanka

Solid fur jacket made from deer skin. In winter, it is worn in two layers: an outer layer (fur on the outside) and an inner layer (fur on the inside), and in warm weather - in one layer. The collar in the relaxed position is wide, but the tendon rope threaded through it allows it to be tightened if necessary. The loose sleeves are tapered at the wrists so that your hands can always be tucked under the jacket hem. Hood is optional. For additional comfort, the collar and bottom of the kukhlyanka are lined with arctic fox, wolverine or dog fur. Another frequently used element is a belt on which knives, pouches and other necessary ammunition were hung. The degree of protection from the cold in kukhlyankas is so high that hunters often sleep in them outdoors in the tundra, using the jacket as a sleeping bag. They put a kukhlyanka on a naked body.

In fact, the design of kukhlyankas is universal for many different peoples of the Far North. There are regional differences, of course, but not so significant: in some places mittens are sewn onto such a design, in others there are hoods, in others there are special bibs. But the material (although some tribes preferred to use seal skins) and cut remained unchanged. And the famous word “parka” - its Eskimo etymology pops up in every article about N3B - also meant a jacket made of deerskin, simply with an elongated back hem, a hood and an open one. In general, on the territory of modern Russia, such a design was rather more typical for women, but the “American Eskimos” used it in winter as a top layer.

Kamleika

The peoples of the Far North also have their own raincoats - kamleikas. In appearance, this jacket looks like a chewed-up SI or Isaora model and, from a certain point of view, can really lay claim to the status of technological clothing. Kamleika is a close-up shirt with a hood, which was usually worn as an outer layer on fur coats or kukhlyankas, and by sea hunters for hunting. Such a shirt was made from the intestines and throat tissue of marine mammals: walrus, seal, sea lion. The special texture of such fabrics actually did not allow water and snow to pass through, protecting the fur of the main jacket and the comfort of the wearer.

High boots

The word “unty” comes from the Evenki “unta”, that is, “footwear”. Such boots were made from deer or hare kamus, that is, skins from the legs of an animal. The soles of the shoes were made from sheared deer skin, and the inside of the high boots was lined with fur. In most cases, they did not differ in particular height, but if the boot was high, then it was pulled together under the knee with a restraint. A classic element is inlay with beads or embroidery. The inner insole of the high boots was made, if possible, from felt, which provided additional comfort to the wearer. By the way, a variation of sheepskin high boots became a favorite item of clothing for pilots during the First World War, as it allowed them to keep their feet warm even in conditions of extreme altitudes and an open cockpit.

McLucky

In general, the shoes of the inhabitants of the American continent - the Inuit and Yupik - are related to the high boots. They were also made from shortened deer or seal fur and usually reached only the height of the shin. Inuit artisans, or rather wives, often sewed pom-poms or tassels from rabbit or fox fur on the outside. In Greenland and Eastern Alaska, the technique of covering boots with animal cartilage was also widespread so that the hunter’s tread would be completely soft and silent.

Fur pants

We do not know any original terms to designate the most common bottom of the peoples of the North - fur pants. However, almost all inhabitants of northern latitudes wore and wear them in one form or another. In winter, it is customary to wear two pairs at once or, like the Eskimos, to wear fur (!) stockings under such pants.