If gooseberries have been growing at your dacha for a long time, you got the bush from your grandmother, and she once took cuttings from her great-grandmother, most likely you are familiar with the problem of powdery mildew firsthand. This whitish coating on the leaves and stems, brown spots on the berries, which can be cleaned off if you try, but it’s still not very pleasant. Old varieties are good because they are tasty and definitely have not undergone any modifications, but the problem is that they are not at all resistant to various diseases.

I don’t want to get rid of a tasty variety, but I don’t want to defeat powdery mildew. At the same time, it would be nice to do without toxic pesticides. There are effective folk remedies for the prevention and control of powdery mildew. And they have been tested in practice.

The gooseberry disease, which everyone calls powdery mildew, is called spheroteca. It affects all parts of the bush: leaves, shoots, ovaries, berries. At first, the plant is covered with a white coating, and over time it turns into a brown coating, reminiscent of felt. Affected shoots become bent, leaves curl, and fruits do not fill well.

The disease is caused by a genus of fungi with the same name, which release spores twice: in spring and summer. Therefore, in a good way, you need to carry out three treatments of gooseberries against powdery mildew: before flowering, immediately after flowering and before leaf fall. In this case, it is better not to spray the bushes, but to wet them, trying not to miss a single branch. In addition, it is important to remember that the fungal spores overwinter in the litter, that is, it is necessary to spill the same product on the soil around the bush. It is recommended to carry out the treatment in the evening.

Folk remedies for powdery mildew on gooseberries

Ammonium nitrate 50 grams of ammonium nitrate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Gooseberries are treated after flowering.

Aspirin + Soda 1 tbsp. soda, 1 aspirin tablet, 1 tsp. dishwashing detergent or liquid soap, 1 tbsp. vegetable oil is dissolved in 4.5 liters of water. The bushes are treated with this composition once every two weeks during the season.

Water Water should be brought to a boil. In early spring, before the snow melts, gooseberry bushes are doused with boiling water directly from a watering can.

Gaupsin or trichodermin (biological products) 150 ml. The drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spray gooseberries during the growing season at intervals of 2 weeks.

Ash Option 1. One kilogram of ash is poured into 10 liters of water and left for 7 days, stirring occasionally. Then carefully pour the infusion, leaving sediment at the bottom. Option 2,300 grams of ash are mixed with 10 liters of water, brought to a boil and boiled for 30 minutes. Then cool until sediment appears and carefully pour into a clean container. Option 3.3 kg. ash is poured with 10 liters of boiling water and left for 24 hours. Then filter. Spraying is carried out at the end of May - beginning of June three times with an interval of one day. The ash sludge is diluted with water and the soil under the bushes is watered with this mixture.

Soda ash 50 grams of soda ash are dissolved in a small amount of hot water, then the water is brought to 10 liters and 10 grams of liquid soap are added. Gooseberries are processed twice: before flowering and after flowering.

Kefir or sour milk 1 liter of kefir or sour milk is mixed with 9 liters of water. Treatment is carried out three times every three days.

Mullein Mullein is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 and infused for three days. Then dilute again with water 1:3 and filter. Gooseberries are treated before flowering, after flowering and before leaf fall.

Onion peels 200 grams of onion peels are poured with 10 liters of boiling water and left for 2 days. Gooseberries are treated before flowering, after flowering and before leaf fall.

Whey 1 liter of whey is mixed with 9 liters of water. Treatment is carried out three times every three days.

Tansy 30 grams of dry tansy is poured with 10 liters of water and left for 24 hours. Then cook for 1.5-2 hours and filter. Tansy decoction is used to treat the ground around the bushes in spring and autumn.

Rotten hay or forest litter A bucket is filled one third with hay, topped up with water and left for three days. Then again dilute with water 1:3 and filter. Gooseberries are treated before flowering, after flowering and before leaf fall.

Soda 2 tbsp. soda and 50 grams of grated laundry soap are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The bushes are treated twice: before flowering and after flowering.

Fertilizers For 10 liters of water you need 20 grams of superphosphate, 50 grams of potassium chloride, 30 grams of urea, 5 grams of potassium permanganate. Gooseberries are sprayed once after flowering.

Fitosporin Take 100-150 ml. drug per 10 liters of water. The bush and the soil under it are treated in the spring before flowering and in the fall after fruiting.

Horsetail 1 kg. fresh horsetail is poured into 10 liters of water and boiled for 2 hours. The broth is cooled, filtered and diluted with water 1:5. Spray gooseberries during the summer season at intervals of a week.

In conclusion, I would like to say that powdery mildew, like many other fungal diseases, loves moisture, thickened plantings and soils poor in organic matter. Therefore, firstly, you need to try to regularly cut out old, poorly fruiting branches so that air can freely penetrate inside the bush, and secondly, to heal and enrich the soil with organic matter. Instead of digging under the bushes, weeding out all the weeds and removing the litter (what if there is a fungus lurking there?), it is better, on the contrary, to put tops under the gooseberries (the tops of nightshades are especially good: potatoes and tomatoes) and generously spill them on top with a solution of EM preparations . Beneficial microorganisms will quickly get down to business and “chew” organic residues along with pathogenic fungi. We wish you success and great harvests!

The mint leaf beetle, also called the green mint leaf beetle, loves to feast on mint. They especially love mint varieties such as longleaf mint, field mint, and water mint. At a fairly high population density, these pests are able to eat entire leaves on vegetation, which in turn provokes a decrease in the mass fraction of essential oil and yield in general. In addition to mint, other representatives of the famous Lamiaceae family sometimes act as food plants for mint leaf beetles.

Meet the pest

The mint leaf beetle is a pest beetle that ranges in size from eight to eleven millimeters. Its oval, smooth body is distinguished by a rather bright color - as a rule, it is blue-greenish.

Overwintering of the larvae, along with the beetles that have completed feeding, takes place in the surface soil layer. The extended release of beetles starts at an air temperature of 14 to 20 degrees in the first half of May, and its completion occurs in July. All bugs immediately after emergence are characterized by immobility and nest in leaf axils. They will begin to show activity in the form of intensive feeding somewhat later, and it will occur mainly in the evening and morning hours.

A month and a half after emergence, the additional feeding of the females is completed, and they begin to lay eggs not only on the luxurious mint inflorescences, but also on young leaves (mainly on their lower sides). The oviposition process begins approximately in mid-June, noticeably intensifying by the second half of July - early August, and its end usually occurs at the end of September. Each oviposition consists mainly of six to sixteen eggs. At the same time, it can contain up to forty-eight eggs at a maximum, and only two at a minimum. As for the total fertility of females, on average it reaches 250 eggs, and the duration of the embryonic development stage takes from six to eleven days.

Early reborn larvae, along with those that have completed their development, are sent for subsequent pupation into the soil, to a depth of two to three centimeters - they will turn into pupae in about one and a half to two weeks. The beetles that appear in August give rise to new generations until October-November, and then in the adult stage they move to winter. Together with them, the larvae that have accumulated a substantial supply of fat and protein deposits, as well as late-reborn larvae that have reached their final instar, overwinter. Within a year, two generations of mint leaf beetles develop.

Most often, these mint pests inhabit areas located in damp, low areas, well-warmed by the sun and protected from the wind.

How to fight

Wild mint species should be promptly eliminated from the site. You should also observe spatial isolation of mint plantings of different years.

Vegetation against mint leaf beetles can be sprayed with a concentrated decoction of celandine: for ten liters of celandine water you will need 200 g. Dried leaves should be taken. The raw materials filled with water should be left for 24 hours, and then a little soap should be added.

In the breeding areas of mint leaf beetles, the use of insecticides is allowed. The most commonly used are Fosbecid or Actellik. And forty days before the start of harvesting, such treatments are stopped.

Peppermint has been valued for many years for its amazing taste and medicinal qualities, which is why this plant is often grown in home gardens. Parts of this vegetation are successfully used for cosmetic purposes, as well as in cooking and traditional medicine recipes.

The green mint leaf beetle is most often found in European territory. He loves to enjoy essential oil crops, so he often chooses lemon balm or mint.

After a month and a half, mature females begin laying eggs on mint inflorescences - in one season, one individual can lay about 200 eggs. The breeding season of the green mint leaf beetle lasts from June to early September.

Both larvae and beetles usually accumulate on mint shoots in fairly large quantities, which ultimately causes damage and subsequent drying of the plantings. The second generation of leaf beetles appears in early October.

The larvae go through 4 stages of development and develop in the egg for up to 3 days. They are highly sensitive, so at the slightest danger or touch they curl up and fall to the ground. The larvae of the green mint leaf beetle cause serious damage to mint plantings: they skeletonize the leaves, make through holes in them and eat around the edges.

To pupate, the larvae go into the ground, going to a depth of 2-3 centimeters. A week later they turn into pupae, and in August new bugs fly out. During the season, 2 generations of mint pest develop.

Leaf beetles pose a real threat to many agricultural crops. To combat them, an integrated approach is used, based on mechanical, biological and chemical destruction of individuals.

At the first detection of individuals on the site, you can try to collect the adults manually. Preventive measures include timely pruning of diseased parts of the plant and their subsequent destruction, burning of fallen autumn leaves and any plant waste, deep digging of the soil after harvesting before frost.

The preparations Actellik and Fosbecid are used for spraying with insecticides, but it is strictly recommended to stop their use 40 days before harvest.

In addition, it is advisable to use folk recipes against insects - spray mint with an infusion of hot pepper or tomato tops. A good effect is obtained by treating plants with infusion of chamomile and dusting the soil with tobacco dust. In addition, it is recommended to promptly get rid of weeds that can attract the mint leaf beetle to the area.

– the plant is attractive not only to humans, but also to many pests and diseases. Their list turns out to be very extensive and, accordingly, when growing mint, you need to be on the alert all the time.

It starts to bother me as soon as it grows back mint flea beetle(Longatarsus licopi Faudr.). Its rather small beetles and larvae, 1.5 mm in size, are straw-yellow in color and make round holes in the leaves. These pests are especially rampant if the spring is dry, without heavy rainfall and at the same time warm. The damage caused by this pest in some years can be very severe.

Another tormentor of mint - green shieldweed (Cassida viridis L.), which also begins to rage immediately from the beginning of spring regrowth and during the period of intensive growth. Beetles and larvae make rounded holes in the leaves and gnaw off the edges.

Peppermint leaf beetle (Chrysomela menthastri Suffr) is a small bug, 7-10 mm in size, green in color with a metallic sheen. Beetles and larvae chew holes and damage the edges of leaves.

(Aphis menthae L., Brachycaudus helichryi Kalt) - up to 2 mm in size, dark green, located in colonies at the bottom of the leaf. Basically, it damages the upper part of the shoot and the plant stops growing normally and forming full-fledged leaves. Destroyed during deep autumn digging. In some years it can noticeably affect plants.

Cicadas (Empoasca pteridis Dhlb) - adults and larvae suck the juice from the leaves and they begin to dry out. Young, growing plants are especially susceptible to attack by the pest.

Mint can be attacked from both sides weevils (Tanymecus palliatus F ., Bothynoderes punctiventris Germ.) - beetles gnaw off the edges of leaves, and the larvae quietly and unnoticed feed on the roots. The only joy is that this pest is not announced every year.

But meadow butterfly (Pyrausta sticticalis L.), which can eat up the plant almost completely, in some years causes very severe damage.

Peppermint mite- a dangerous pest in the south. It overwinters in the soil at a depth of 10 cm. From May to August it feeds on the sap of the tops of shoots, and in August it goes into the soil for the winter. Distributed with planting material. Control measures: deep digging, treatment of planting material with acaricides and return of mint to its original place no earlier than after 3 years

Gives an unaesthetic appearance to the plant and raw materials slobbering pennice (Philaenus spumarius L.). Adults and larvae cause deformation of vegetative and generative shoots, and its presence is accompanied by the appearance of white foamy lumps on the stems and in the leaf axils.

If mint grows in combination with wheatgrass or in the place where potatoes grew last year, beware wireworm(larvae of click beetles), which gnaws the roots. Here the control measures are only preventive - the battle with wheatgrass and planting mint after crops that are not interesting to this pest.

In addition to the listed pests, mint can be damaged by all kinds of caterpillars, which, like the cabbage cutworm, round-winged moth and burdock, gnaw leaves, the meadow moth, whose caterpillars eat the entire above-ground mass, and, of course, the ubiquitous mole cricket, which gnaws the roots.

How to deal with all these numerous parasites? Insecticides are used in production, for example deltamethrin (Decis), which is applied once in case of severe damage by these pests, but no later than 25-30 days before the intended harvest. However, in a summer cottage, in a craving for everything environmentally friendly, it is better to take preventive measures, that is, change the place where plants are planted at least once every 2 years, dig up the vacant area deeply, turning the soil, remove it on time and burn plant residues.

Against the pests listed above, you can try to spray the plants with a concentrated decoction of celandine (200 g of dry leaves per 10 liters of water, leave for a day, then add soap and spray the affected plants). A concentrated decoction of bird cherry twigs or an infusion of pine needles (1:1) can help with the scoop.

Of the diseases on mint, the most harmful rust(Puccinia menthae Pers.), which is found in all mint growing areas. This is a fungal disease, the development of which is promoted by high humidity, low air temperatures, excess nitrogen in the soil, as well as perennial mint cultivation. Brown pads appear on the underside of the leaves, which later acquire a dark brown color. Rust is usually combated using preventive measures and spraying. But, for example, in the USA they invented a rather exotic method - burning out the above-ground part using a flamethrower with a propane-butane flame at a pressure of 2-4 atm. and unit speed 1 km/h.

Powdery mildew (Erysiphe cichoracearum DC f. menthae), which manifests itself in the fact that a white cobwebby coating appears on the leaves and stems in the 2nd half of the growing season. Later, black fruiting bodies with spores appear. This disease is very common in the Non-Chernozem zone, where wet and cool weather conditions in August provoke the active development of the disease. Control measures: autumn plowing to a depth of 20 cm; dusting with ground sulfur at a dose of 20 kg/ha; spraying with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

Verticillium wilt(wilt) is a disease caused by a pathogenic fungus that penetrates through root hairs. The top 2-3 pairs of leaves turn black and the plant dies. Agrotechnical control measures - compliance with crop rotation, destruction of damaged plantations after harvesting. Replanting after 9 years. Breeding wilt-resistant varieties, such as Prilukskaya 6.

Anthracnose (white grouse) - Brown spots appear on leaves affected by the fungus. The fungus overwinters on dead remains. Control measures: plowing, 3-4 times spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Septoria or leaf spot(Septoriamenthicola Sacc) - characteristic features are round or angular brown spots (up to 8 mm in size) on the leaves, limited by a black rim and covered with black dots. Control measures are the same as for anthracnose.

The growth of rhizomes is caused by mycoplasma (Mycoplasma). Affected plants are stunted in growth, leaves acquire anthocyanin coloring, and rhizomes cease to form. With this disease, it is necessary to destroy damaged plants as quickly as possible and actively fight all gnawing and sucking pests that can transfer the disease from plant to plant. And, of course, transplanting healthy plants to another area.

The optimal measures to combat all of these diseases are prevention: replant plants in time, cut off plant debris and burn them, rather than compost them. To avoid rust and powdery mildew, you can cut the crop at the end of July, before the disease begins to spread, and therefore without resorting to chemical means of protection. In addition, an important factor reducing resistance to powdery mildew is excess nitrogen nutrition. But adding phosphorus and viburnum, on the contrary, will increase the plant’s resistance.

Photo: Nikolay Alekseev, Maxim Minin, Rita Brilliantova

Mint - has a low, outstretched stem, it can reach a length of up to 1 m, with pubescent shoots. Mint leaves are round, ovoid or oblong with a pointed tip. Their edges are jagged. The leaf blades are pubescent on the front and bottom sides, less often bare with short petioles. Of all the plants belonging to the Lamiaceae family, mint has the most simple flowers. In peppermint, these flowers are small with bell-shaped cups, reddish-violet, hairy and collected in round half-whorls, forming spike-shaped inflorescences. Mint blooms from June to September. Mint is pollinated by flies and beetles.

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Introduction……………………………………………………………...3

Chapter 1. Biological features of mint....................................4-5

1.2. Types of mint………………………………………………………………...5-13

Chapter 2.Features of mint agricultural technology………………...……13-15

Chapter 3. The meaning of mint……………………………………...15-18

Chapter 4. Pests and diseases of mint, as well as measures to combat them……………………………………………………………………………………….18-21

Conclusion…………………………………………..……….22-23

Literature…………………………………………………….…23

INTRODUCTION

Mint names of plants from the Lamiaceae (Lamiaceae) family. The most ancient mentions of mint date back to Assyrian and ancient Egyptian culture; its description was found on cuneiform waxed tablets, as well as in the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs. Hippocrates and Avicenna mentioned mint when describing the medicinal properties of this plant in their works. The modern name for the plant was given by the ancient Greeks in honor of the nymph Menta. She was the beloved of Hades, the ruler of the underworld, and when his jealous wife Persephone found out about the betrayal, she turned the nymph into a plant in revenge. Hades was upset, but all he could do was give the plant a characteristic fragrant aroma.

Purpose This course work is to study the literature on the topic “New varieties of mint: biology and agricultural technology,” as well as conduct an experimental part on growing mint. To achieve this goal, the following were identified: tasks :

• Describe the biological features of mint.
• Consider the meaning of mint
• Explore different varieties of mint.
• Describe the features of mint agricultural technology.
• Describe mint pests and measures to combat them.
• Conduct an experimental part on growing different varieties of mint at home.

CHAPTER 1.BIOLOGICAL FEATURES OF MINT

Mint has a low, outstretched stem, it can reach a length of up to 1 m, with pubescent shoots. Mint leaves are round, ovoid or oblong with a pointed tip. Their edges are jagged. The leaf blades are pubescent on the front and bottom sides, less often bare with short petioles. Of all the plants belonging to the Lamiaceae family, mint has the most simple flowers. In peppermint, these flowers are small with bell-shaped cups, reddish-violet, hairy and collected in round half-whorls, forming spike-shaped inflorescences. Mint blooms from June to September. Mint is pollinated by flies and beetles.

During the growing season, mint goes through the following phases of development: emergence, branching, budding and flowering. The onset, passage and duration of these phases are directly dependent on the growing conditions.

In years with less precipitation during the growing season, accelerated development and occurrence of individual phases is observed in a shorter period, and in years with high precipitation there is a delay in phases, despite the fact that average temperatures fluctuate within the same limits.

And this wonderful plant blooms all summer. But it must be said that such a wonderful plant, which is mint, is also grown artificially, and all this happens only due to the fact that this plant is an essential oil plant. Mint loves moisture very much, so it can often be found near bodies of water, and it grows in damp forests. So you have a chance to meet it in swampy and damp places in the forest.

There is another type of plant that is very close to mint. This is lemon balm. It is even often called lemon balm. And in appearance this plant is also very similar to mint, but a very significant difference is that it has a lemon smell. This plant is widespread in more southern latitudes, so it is difficult to find it in the taiga.

The main component of mint is menthol. Mint also contains a large amount of essential oils. And for the sake of this component, it is cultivated artificially. Thanks to the pleasant, cool, refreshing and aromatic taste of its dark green leaves, mint is widely used in the culinary, confectionery, liquor and tobacco industries. It is added to teas, soft drinks, syrups, ice cream and candies. Mint powder is added to minced meat. Mint sauce goes well with lamb dishes. In the form of fresh greens, it is added to soups and salads.

1.1.TYPES OF MINT

Type of mint	Peculiarities	Usage
Peppermint (Mentha piperita) Peppermint	This species is grown in many countries. The plants reach a height of 80 cm and are easily recognized by their serrated leaves with a purple edge. The leaves have a pleasant smell and a refreshing cooling taste. There are two forms of peppermint: black and white. The most intensively cultivated is black (also called English) mint, which gives a significantly higher yield of essential oil than white mint. White mint is less commonly cultivated, which produces less essential oil, but with a more subtle aroma.	Peppermint combines taste benefits and medicinal effects. Peppermint oil is included in many medicinal preparations: mint drops, stomach tablets, various ointments. Essential oil also serves as a raw material for the production of menthol, the main component of mint essence, which is added to toothpastes, powders, and colognes. In home cooking, mint is used in making drinks, adding leaves to fruit drinks, compotes, jelly, and syrups. They season meat dishes (lamb, lamb), as well as poultry. Dry ground mint is added to homemade baked goods: buns, pies, cookies. Peppermint is included in liqueur flavorings.
mint (Mentha spicata Huds.) Spearmint	This mint can most often be found in gardens and vegetable gardens. The plants are quite powerful, about 90 cm high. The main substance of mint essential oil is carvone, so it does not have such a strong cooling and burning effect as peppermint.	Garden mint was the first to be used in cooking, as well as in the production of chewing gum, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Added to tea. In addition, it is used to flavor toothpaste, in soap making and perfumery. The medicinal properties of this species are much less pronounced than those of peppermint.
Mint (Mentha crispa L.)	Can serve as a partial substitute for garden mint. It grows as a bush, reaching a height of 80-90 cm. It differs from other types of mint in its curly leaves and good frost resistance. It combines the flavor properties of several mint plants, while maintaining its rather delicate and pleasant mint taste.	Peppermint differs from spearmint in the absence of a menthol flavor. It is widely used in cooking: more boldly than peppermint. The leaves, rich in various beneficial substances, are boiled and used in folk medicine as a sedative, as well as to relieve pain from bruises and for medicinal baths.
Field mint (Mentha arvensis L.)	It grows in almost all corners of the planet, including Russia, most often in the wild. The bushes, reaching a height of 80 cm, have a branched stem and a large creeping rhizome. Field mint lacks the pungent odor and cooling menthol taste characteristic of peppermint.	As a spice, field mint is used in raw and dried form to flavor salads, vegetable soups, fish dishes, when baking confectionery, and in preparing tonic drinks. Serves as an additive to teas. It is also used to increase the shelf life of products, for example, when pickling cabbage. In folk medicine, decoctions of field mint are used for headaches and inflammatory processes.
Longleaf mint(Mentha longifolia L. Huds.)	The plant of this species is quite powerful, reaching a height of 90-120 cm. It has a large creeping rhizome and a tetrahedral branched stem. The leaves are dark green with serrated-toothed edges and have a pleasant, delicate scent.	this species is mainly grown for its essential oil with a pleasant herbaceous-spicy odor. It has antiseptic, analgesic properties and improves digestion. In home cooking, it is added to salads, vegetable soups and broths. Used to flavor main meat courses, especially fried beef and kebabs. Place in dough products (pies, gingerbread). Used for pickling eggplants and sauerkraut. Longleaf mint is also used in the perfume industry and soap making.
Apple mint (Mentha rotundifolia)	It grows as a bush up to 60 cm high. It differs from other species in its graceful, more rounded and velvety leaves. The aboveground part is dark green.	The delicate, less intense aroma of apple mint distinguishes it from other types of mint. It can be successfully added not only to salads, soups, meat dishes, but also to various drinks, sweet dishes and homemade baked goods..

Lemon mint. The stem is erect, branched, slightly pubescent, 80-100 cm high, heavily leafy. The leaves are opposite, round, ovate, jagged at the edges: they are dark green on the upper side, lighter below, covered with glandular hairs. The flowers are bisexual, white or pink, small, collected in false whorls, located in the axils of the upper leaves. The calyx is green, bell-shaped; corolla two-lipped. The fruits are ovoid, brown, 2 mm long and 1 mm in diameter.Demanding on warmth and light. It can also grow in shady places, but the yield decreases and the plant becomes less fragrant.

Peppermint - a perennial herbaceous plant with a horizontal branched rhizome and thin fibrous roots. Stem erect, 30 x 100 cm in height, hollow, tetrahedral, straight, branched, densely leafed, glabrous or with sparse short appressed hairs. The leaves are opposite, oblong-ovate, short-petiolate, pointed, with a heart-shaped base and a serrated edge. The flowers are small, bisexual or pistillate, light purple in color, collected at the tops of the shoots in semi-whorls forming spike-shaped inflorescences (thyrsus). The corolla is five-membered, slightly irregular (vaguely two-lipped), pinkish or pale purple. Blooms from late June to September. The fruit is a coenobium, consisting of four nuts. Fruits are rarely produced.

Chemical composition: plants contain essential oil, tannins and resins, carotene, hesperidin, ascorbic acid (0.0095%), chlorogenic acid (0.7%), coffee acid (0.52%), ursolic acid (0.3% ) and oleanolic (0.12%) acids, rutin (0.014%), betaine, arginine, neutral saponins, glucose, rhamnose, phytosterol. Fatty oil (20%) was found in the seeds.

The oil is colorless, with a yellowish or greenish tint, with a pleasant refreshing taste and smell. As it sits, it thickens and darkens. The main component of the essential oil is the secondary alcohol l-menthol (4592%). The leaf oil also contains menthol esters with acetic and valeric acids, α- and β-pinene, limonene, dipentene, phellandrene, cineol, citral, geraniol, carvone, dihydrocarvone.

Catnip - perennial herbaceous plant 40-100 cm high. Outwardly resembles mint. Stems are branched, tetrahedral. The leaves are opposite, cordate-ovate and oblong, pubescent, sharp, pollen-shaped. The flowers are five-membered, two-lipped, whitish, small, collected in dense paniculate-spike-shaped inflorescences. The flowers may be white or have a bluish-purple tint. Dry fruit that breaks down into 4 nuts. Catnip is a winter-hardy plant. Light- and moisture-loving. Prefers soil that is structural, light in mechanical composition, fairly fertile and free from weeds. It has a strong, unique odor and a pleasantly bitter taste that attracts cats. Grows among bushes, in vacant lots, near roads.

Melissa - perennial essential oil herbaceous plant 30x120 cm high, species of the genus Melissa ( Melissa ) family Lamiaceae ( Lamiaceae ). The rhizome is highly branched. The stem is branched, tetrahedral, pubescent with short hairs with an admixture of glands or almost bare. The leaves are opposite, petiolate, ovate to rounded-rhombic, crenate-serrate, pubescent. The flowers are collected in false rings of 6 x 12; calyx with lower subulate teeth, long-haired and glandular; the corolla is bluish-white or pale lilac. Four stamens, a pistil with a four-parted upper ovary and a long style. The fruit is large, consists of four ovoid nuts, black, shiny. Seeds remain viable for 2-3 years. Blooms in June-August. The fruits ripen in August-September. Melissa is less winter-hardy than catnip. Since lemon balm and catnip are often confused, it is important to pay attention to the external differences. Catnip forms apical inflorescences at the ends of branches, while lemon balm does not have them. Its flowers are located in whorls in the axils of the leaves of the upper part of the stem. Melissa leaves are light, bright green, while catnip leaves have a dull grayish tint.

Snakehead - perennial, often annual plant, 15x50 cm high.The root is thin, taproot.The stem is erect, tetrahedral, short-haired, branched from the base, with long branches directed obliquely upward. Leaves have short petioles, opposite, oblong-ovate or oblong-lanceolate, blunt-toothed at the edges, dark green; apical leaves lanceolate; The bracts are oblong-wedge-shaped. The flower of the Moldovan dragonhead, like other species of this genus, vaguely resembles the head of a snake (dragon). The flowers are pale purple, on short pedicels in six-flowered false whorls. The calyx is short-haired, two-lipped; corolla 20x25 mm long, white or bluish-violet, pubescent on the outside. The fruit is a triangular, oblong nut, dark brown in color, 2.8 x 3.1 mm long, 1.5 x 1.8 mm thick. Blooms in July/August. Fruits in August-September.

CHAPTER 2. FEATURES OF AGRICULTURAL MINT

Place of cultivation

Mint prefers a sunny location and fertile, deep, loose and fairly moist soil. It also tolerates shade well, but in this case the soil should be less moist. This crop grows especially well on moist, rich black soil. On calcareous soil it loses a lot of flavor. Places with excessive moisture and heavy clay soil are unsuitable for mint. The preceding plant can be various vegetables, under which the soil is fertilized with manure. Usually mint does not stay in one place for more than 2-3 years, since its shoots “migrate” from the planting site. After mint, potatoes, onions, green peas and other vegetables are planted.

Propagation and planting of mint

Mint is easily propagated vegetatively by rhizome cuttings, preferably in the 3-5 leaf phase. Cuttings are planted in the summer, and they are first rooted in the sand and then placed in a permanent place. Rhizomes from old bushes are divided and planted in spring or early autumn, placing them with row spacing of 50 x 60 cm, and in a row with spacing of 20 x 35 cm.

Planting is carried out in early spring (late April - early May) and in August. Soil preparation is done in advance. Before planting, the deeply cultivated and weed-free area for mint is finally cut up with a harrow, and then divided into ridges. In damp places they are made higher, and in dry areas, on the contrary, the ridges are deepened into the ground so that rainwater can be better retained. The cut rhizome cuttings are placed in the grooves made in the beds and covered with soil.

During the summer, the planting is loosened 2×3 times, weeds are regularly removed and fed by adding 10 m 2 250 x 300 g each of superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium salt.

If you are going to grow mint in your garden or vegetable garden, keep in mind that mint has one drawback - it is quite aggressive and grows strongly, thanks to creeping rhizomes, occupying more and more new spaces. To prevent it from causing you a lot of trouble, you need to immediately protect it by burying restrictive strips of iron, plastic or slate at the depth of the rhizomes.

Mint care

Caring for mint involves loosening the soil, hilling, watering (as needed) and weeding. Plant feeding is carried out in early spring. To obtain more green mass in the spring as it grows, it is recommended to carry out severe pruning: the mint will bush better.

To protect against frost, the ridges are covered in the fall with a layer of loose soil, or covered with spruce branches, straw, dry leaves, spruce branches or manure. Mint plantings should be renewed every 3-4 years, as they have poor weed resistance and quickly fall out.

Preparation and storage of mint

Mint produces a harvest from the first year of life. Before eating fresh, remove the leaves from the stem and tear, cut or use whole, depending on the recipe. Fresh mint is added as a spicy herb to salads, lactic acid soups, meat, seafood and fish, bean and pea hot dishes. It should be borne in mind that heat treatment kills freshness, so it is recommended to add spice to hot dishes before serving.

Cut mint wilts very quickly on a hot day, so keep it in a cool place, wrapped in a damp kitchen towel or in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

Mint also dries well. It is recommended to collect for drying in July-August, at the beginning of flowering, since the leaves during this period accumulate the greatest number of useful substances and are pleasant to the taste. The cut stems are dried in the shade in bunches, then the inflorescences and leaves are torn off, ground into a not very fine powder and stored in a tightly closed container in a dry, cool, place protected from the sun. In this form, mint retains its scent well all winter.

Growing mint in a container

When cultivating mint, you must remember that it grows quickly and can displace other crops from the site. Therefore, it is better to plant it in containers. For example, you can plant it in old metal and wooden containers, then you will be able to move it around the garden.

Most mint species have beautiful, pleasant-smelling leaves and flowers that attract bees and bumblebees. Therefore, it is quite right to grow this crop as an ornamental plant. In addition to large containers placed in the garden, it grows successfully in boxes or tubs on balconies and terraces, as it is a very unpretentious plant.

CHAPTER 3. MEANING OF MINT

Use in cooking:

For culinary purposes, both fresh and dried mint leaves and shoots are used, which have a characteristic cooling taste and a sharp menthol aroma. Fresh mint is added to salads, vegetable soups, fish and cheese dishes, meat marinades, drinks, sauces and used in the preparation of confectionery and baked goods.

In American cuisine, mint is used to flavor drinks and added to various fruit and vegetable salads; in English cuisine it is added to sauces for lamb, lamb and poultry; in Oriental, Italian and Spanish cuisines it is used as a spice or added to various spice mixtures.

From fresh leaves and shoots of mint, essential oil and menthol are obtained, which are widely used in the perfumery, confectionery, alcoholic beverage industries and in the production of medicines.

Application in medicine:

Mint is a valuable medicinal plant. It is used in official and folk medicine. Peppermint oil is included in validol, various drops, mint lozenges, cough drops, tooth powders and pastes. Mint leaves are used in the form of a water infusion as a means of improving digestion, against intestinal spasms, and nausea. Mint is included in delicious teas, carminative, choleretic, gastric, diaphoretic, sedative teas, as well as in aromatic bath teas. Mint relieves heartburn and bad belching. No wonder they say that it cools the mouth, but warms the intestines.

In scientific medicine, peppermint is used in the form of a menthol preparation, which is prepared from essential oil, as well as in the form of tincture and mint water (for rinsing). In order to improve digestion, plant leaves are consumed. Peppermint oil is included in medications that have antiseptic, anticonvulsant and tonic properties.

In folk medicine, peppermint is used quite widely. It is effective as a sedative for heart and nervous diseases, as a strengthening agent for loss of strength, it is used for cholera, rheumatism, toothache, and as a means of regulating the gastrointestinal tract. This plant is used as an auxiliary choleretic agent. A decoction of mint relieved diarrhea.

Mint is used for hemorrhoids, female diseases, and severe headaches as a fast-acting external remedy (in the form of fresh leaves). Mint is used for rickets, scrofula (in the form of tincture, juice or bath decoctions).

For bleeding from the lungs, a mint decoction is useful, and for bloody vomiting, a vinegar decoction is useful.

For severe bad breath, Bulgarian doctors recommend rinsing your mouth with an infusion of mint and red wine and at the same time taking this infusion orally, one tablespoon 2-3 times a day.

Application in cosmetics

Mint has long been used for cosmetic purposes. It is used for soothing and anti-inflammatory masks. Brew a tablespoon of mint with a glass of boiling water, cover with a lid, leave for half an hour and filter. The resulting infusion is used to wipe the inflamed areas. For sagging skin, a hot herbal compress made from a mixture is useful: peppermint, linden blossom in equal proportions. A tablespoon of raw material is brewed with a glass of boiling water, infused and filtered. The moistened napkin is lightly wrung out and applied to the face. Keep the compress for 8-10 minutes, soaking the fabric in the hot broth.

To refresh a tired face, make a contrasting compress of mint and cold water. Soak a napkin in hot mint infusion and hold it on your face for 2-3 minutes, then apply a napkin soaked in cold water. The procedure is repeated 2-3 times. For dry skin, make a mask of brewed dry mint (2 tablespoons of chopped herb, pour 50 g of water and heat). Apply the mask to a clean face and keep for 15-20 minutes. For acne-prone skin, it is good to make lotions from infusions of mint, horsetail, yarrow and sage in equal proportions. Pour one tablespoon of the mixture into a glass of boiling water, let it brew and strain. Apply the liquid to a clean face using a cotton swab.

Contraindications:

When consumed in large quantities, mint can cause poor sleep, heart pain and decreased libido in men.

Mint is contraindicated in case of individual intolerance, during pregnancy and lactation and in children under 5 years of age.

CHAPTER 4. PESTS, DISEASES OF MINT AND MEASURES TO CONTROL THEM

Mint is a plant attractive not only to humans, but also to many pests and diseases. Their list turns out to be very extensive and, accordingly, when growing mint, you need to be on the alert all the time.

It starts to bother me as soon as it grows back mint flea beetle (Longatarsus licopi Faudr.). Its rather small beetles and larvae, 1.5 mm in size, are straw-yellow in color and make round holes in the leaves. These pests are especially rampant if the spring is dry, without heavy rainfall and at the same time warm. The damage caused by this pest in some years can be very severe.

Another pest of mintgreen shieldweed(Cassida viridis L.), which also begins to rage immediately from the beginning of spring regrowth and during the period of intensive growth. Beetles and larvae make rounded holes in the leaves and gnaw off the edges.

Peppermint leaf beetle (Chrysomela menthastri Suffr) a small bug, 7-10 mm in size, green in color with a metallic sheen. Beetles and larvae chew holes and damage the edges of leaves.

Aphid (Aphis menthae L., Brachycaudus helichryi Kalt) - up to 2 mm in size, dark green, located in colonies at the bottom of the leaf. Basically, it damages the upper part of the shoot and the plant stops growing normally and forming full-fledged leaves. Destroyed during deep autumn digging. In some years it can noticeably affect plants.

Cicadas (Empoasca pteridis Dhlb) Adults and larvae suck the juice from the leaves and they begin to dry out. Young, growing plants are especially susceptible to attack by the pest.

Mint can be attacked from both sides weevils (Tanymecus palliatus F., Bothynoderes punctiventris Germ.) the beetles gnaw off the edges of the leaves, and the larvae quietly and unnoticed feed on the roots. The only joy is that this pest is not announced every year.

But the meadow moth (Pyrausta sticticalis L.), which can eat up the plant almost completely, in some years causes very severe damage.

Peppermint mite - a dangerous pest in the south. It overwinters in the soil at a depth of 10 cm. From May to August it feeds on the sap of the tops of shoots, and in August it goes into the soil for the winter. Distributed with planting material. Control measures: deep digging, treatment of planting material with acaricides and return of mint to its original place no earlier than after 3 years

Slobbering Penny- (Philaenus spumarius L.). Adults and larvae cause deformation of vegetative and generative shoots, and its presence is accompanied by the appearance of white foamy lumps on the stems and in the leaf axils.

If mint grows in combination with wheatgrass or in the place where potatoes grew last year, beware wireworm (larvae of click beetles), which gnaws the roots. Here the control measures are only preventive battle with wheatgrass and planting mint after crops that are not interesting to this pest.

In addition to the listed pests, mint can be damaged by all kinds of caterpillars, which, like the cabbage cutworm, round-winged moth and burdock, gnaw leaves, the meadow moth, whose caterpillars eat the entire above-ground mass, and, of course, the ubiquitous mole cricket, which gnaws the roots.

How to deal with all these numerous pests? Insecticides are used in production, for example deltamethrin (Decis), which is applied once in case of severe damage by these pests, but no later than 25-30 days before the intended harvest. However, in a summer cottage, in a craving for everything environmentally friendly, it is better to take preventive measures, that is, change the place where plants are planted at least once every 2 years, dig up the vacant area deeply, turning the soil, remove it on time and burn plant residues.

Against the pests listed above you canspray the plants with a concentrated decoction of celandine (leave 200 g of dry leaves in 10 liters of water for a day, then add soap and spray the affected plants). A concentrated decoction of bird cherry twigs or an infusion of pine needles (1:1) can help with the scoop.

Of the diseases on mint, the most harmful rust (Puccinia menthae Pers.), which is found in all mint growing areas. This is a fungal disease, the development of which is promoted by high humidity, low air temperatures, excess nitrogen in the soil, as well as perennial mint cultivation. Brown pads appear on the underside of the leaves, which later acquire a dark brown color. Rust is usually combated using preventive measures and spraying. But, for example, in the USA they invented a rather exotic method - burning out the above-ground part using a flamethrower with a propane-butane flame at a pressure of 2-4 atm. and unit speed 1 km/h.

Powdery mildew (Erysiphe cichoracearum DC f. menthae), which manifests itself in the fact that a white cobwebby coating appears on the leaves and stems in the 2nd half of the growing season. Later, black fruiting bodies with spores appear. This disease is very common in the Non-Chernozem zone, where wet and cool weather conditions in August provoke the active development of the disease. Control measures: autumn plowing to a depth of 20 cm; dusting with ground sulfur at a dose of 20 kg/ha; spraying with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

Verticillium wilt(wilt) a disease caused by a pathogenic fungus that penetrates through root hairs. The top 2-3 pairs of leaves turn black and the plant dies. Agrotechnical control measures: compliance with crop rotation, destruction of damaged plantations after harvesting. Replanting after 9 years.

Anthracnose (white grouse) - brown spots appear on leaves affected by the fungus. The fungus overwinters on dead remains. Control measures: plowing, 3-4 times spraying with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Septoria or leaf spot(Septoria menthicola Sacc) characteristic features are round or angular brown spots (up to 8 mm in size) on the leaves, limited by a black rim and covered with black dots. Control measures are the same as for anthracnose.

The growth of rhizomes is caused by mycoplasma (Micoplasma). Affected plants are stunted in growth, leaves acquire anthocyanin coloring, and rhizomes cease to form. With this disease, it is necessary to destroy damaged plants as quickly as possible and actively fight all gnawing and sucking pests that can transfer the disease from plant to plant. And, of course, transplanting healthy plants to another area. The optimal measures to combat all of the listed diseases are prevention: replant plants on time, cut off plant debris and burn them rather than compost. To avoid rust and powdery mildew, you can cut the crop at the end of July, before the disease begins to spread, and therefore without resorting to chemical means of protection. In addition, an important factor reducing resistance to powdery mildew is excess nitrogen nutrition. But adding phosphorus and viburnum, on the contrary, will increase the plant’s resistance.

CONCLUSION

This paper discusses “New varieties of mint: biology and agricultural technology.”

For a long time, mint has been considered the best plant that can stimulate brain function and improve memory. It was from it that wreaths were made, which were customary for all ancient speakers to wear. And before their performances, it was customary to spray the halls with mint water.

In addition, mint leaves were added to honey, which was eaten. It was believed that honey and mint could freshen breath. And Hippocrates, for diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, prescribed mint water, which was consumed internally.

So why is mint so different from other plants? The fact is that mint leaves contain a complex essential oil, which contains a large amount of menthol. This substance can cool and warm, and also has a pronounced stimulating effect. Who knows, maybe this is the reason why mint tea is so popular, which is usually drunk when you have a cold.

Menthol contained in mint can relax muscles and improve blood circulation. It is contained in many medications that are prescribed for problems with the cardiovascular system and smooth muscle spasms. Peppermint oil is widely used in perfumery.

If you have a headache or there are wounds or ulcers on your body, it is recommended to apply mint leaves to the sore spot. In dentistry, peppermint oil is added to toothpastes and powders. It can soothe toothache and freshen breath.

Tinctures, drops, and infusions of mint leaves are usually taken for inflammation, nausea, flatulence, etc.

An infusion of mint leaves helps relieve nausea, improves the functioning of the digestive system, and is used as a choleretic agent. Peppermint oil can help with diseases related to the heart and nervous system. This oil also helps in the fight against kidney stones, diseases of the digestive system, respiratory tract, and hypertension. Peppermint oil is an excellent remedy for insomnia. Mint leaves are often used externally for tumors and radiculitis. To do this, mint leaves must be crushed and brewed with boiling water: the resulting mass is applied to the skin.

Most often, mint leaves are combined with other herbs in various herbs and medicinal teas. Mint not only shares its healing properties, but also improves the taste of a particular infusion and gives it a refreshing aroma.

LITERATURE

1. Popov V.I., Shapiro D.K., Danusevich I.K. Medicinal plants. Minsk, 1990.

2. Mustyatse G.I. Peppermint culture. Chisinau, 1985.

3. Mashanov V.I., Pokrovsky A.A. Spicy aromatic plants. Moscow, 1991.

4. Shelkovskaya I.P., Zhukova T.Ya., Katsnelson T.A., Kravtsov P.I., Lavrushenko I.P., Radyuk A.F. "Master". Minsk, 1999.

5. Gammerman A.F., Kadaev G.N., Yatsenko-Khmelevsky A.A. Medicinal plants. M.: Higher school, 1990.

6.Internet resources.

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