Bear cub.

We will need:

1. YarnArt "Suede" (100% polyamide, 135 m / 50 g) - 60 g, 3 mm hook. You can use absolutely any thread, both fluffy and smooth, this bear will look great from any yarn.
2. For a hat and scarf - Adelia "Valeri" (50% acrylic, 50% wool, 146 m / 50 g) - 20 g, circular or stocking knitting needles 3.5 mm, for leaves and nose - "Iris" from Vita cotton (100 % double mercerized cotton, 125 m / 20 g) - a little black, gold, orange, beige and red, 1 mm hook.
3. Filler (holofiber).
4. Pins, washers and discs, the size depends on your knitting density and the threads used, I have discs with a diameter of 18 mm (5 sbn) for the upper legs (4 pcs.), 30 mm (8 sbn) for the lower legs and head (6 pcs. ) You can use any other mounting method convenient for you.
5. Wooden bead for a hat (I have a bead diameter of 10 mm), transparent glue.
6. Eyes (I have a diameter of 9 mm), a suede cord 3 mm wide for decorating the eyelids.
7. Optionally - dry pastel for tinting, you can tint in any other way you are used to.

When using these materials, the bear is 20 cm tall.

Abbreviations:

sc - single crochet

dec - decrease (2 sb knit together)

pr - increase (knit 2 sc from one)

ss - connecting post

vp - air loop

psn - double crochet

s1n - single crochet

s2n - double crochet

Retreat for beginners, we knit correctly:

The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.

Front side of the part: Wrong side of the part:

The description of the knitting of this toy is based on the fact that the beginning of the row does not shift throughout the knitting of the entire part and runs in a straight line, but since we knit in a spiral, without lifting loops and a connecting column, the beginning of the row will shift to the right, therefore, every 4- 5 rows need to be knitted at the end of the row with an additional offset column so that the beginning of the row is again in the same place. These additional columns in the description of the rows are not taken into account.




Thanks to this way of presenting the description, you will always know exactly where you need to get increases or decreases, and the elbow / knee will always be exactly where they should be. The offset of the beginning of the row when knitting in a spiral can differ for different yarns and with different knitting density, so the alignment of the marker makes the description universal - from any yarn, in any hands, you will get exactly the part that it should be.

Stage 1. Upper and lower paws.

upper paws

2 row: inc x 6 (12)

3 row: (inc, 3 sc) x 3 (15)

4-5 rows (2 rows): 15 sc (15)

6 row: 6 sc, dec x 2, 5 sc (13)

7-20 rows (14 rows): 13 sc (13)

We fill the foot with filler, loosely (the foot should be soft and easy to bend). We retreat 2 rows down and insert the cotter pin with the disk (so that the reductions of the 6th row look forward). I have a disc with a diameter of 18 mm. The required disk diameter is determined as follows: fold the foot in half and select a disk that occupies the entire internal space of the foot without stretching the canvas.

You can insert a wire frame into the foot.

On a note: in order for the legs to fit snugly against the body, you need to choose the correct diameter of the disc - it must be equal to the width of the foot at the attachment point. Do not stuff too much on the top of the foot, it should be flat - then the limbs will look like a continuation of the body, and not separate, unrelated parts.

21 row: dec x to close the hole.

We knit the second foot in the same way. Please note that you should get the right and left paws.

Lower legs

The marker of the beginning of the row runs along the middle of the heel.

1 row: 5 ch, from the second loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the first loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (12)

2 row: inc x 2, 2 sc, inc x 4, 2 sc, inc x 2 (20)

3rd row: 8 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 8 sc (22)

6 row: 5 sc, dec, sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, sc, dec, 4 sc, dec (grab the sc of the next row, transfer the marker) (17)

7 row: 4 sc, dec, sc, 3 sc together, sc, dec, 4 sc (13)

8 row: 5 sc, 3 sc together, 5 sc (11)

9th row: 11 sc (11)

10 row: 5 sc, 3 sc in one, 4 sc, inc (14)

11 row: inc, 4 sc, inc, sc, inc, 6 sc (17)

12 row: 7 sc, inc, sc, inc, 7 sc (19)

13-15 rows (3 rows): 19 sc (19)

We select the diameter of the disk: fold the foot in half and select a disk that occupies the entire internal space of the foot without stretching the canvas. While the fastening is postponed.

16 row: 7 sc, dec, sc, dec, 7 sc (17)

17 row: 6 sc, dec, sc, dec, 6 sc (15)

We fill the foot with filler quite tightly. We retreat 3 rows down, 4 loops from the marker to the right (for the left foot) or to the left (for the right foot) and insert the cotter pin with the disk (I have a disk diameter of 30 mm). We fill the upper part of the foot with filler.

Left foot

18 row: (dec, sc) x 2, dec, 5 sc, dec (11)

19 row: sc, dec x 5 (6)

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip.

Right foot

18 row: 5 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, sc, dec (grab the sc of the next row) (11)

19 row: sc, dec x 5 (6)

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip.

The marker of the beginning of the row runs along the middle of the back.

1 row: ch 2, in the first loop 6 sc (6)

2 row: inc x 6 (12)

3 row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

4 row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

7 row: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8 row: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

9 row: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

10-16 rows (7 rows): 54 sc (54)

17 row: 3 sc, dec, 12 sc, (dec, 4 sc) x 3, dec, 12 sc, dec, 3 sc (48)

18 row: 48 sc (48)

We insert the cotter pins of the lower legs between the 7th and 8th rows, 8-9 loops from the marker to the left (for the left foot) and to the right (for the right foot), twist.

19 row: 3 sc, dec, 12 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 3, dec, 12 sc, dec, 3 sc (42)

20 row: 42 sc (42)

21 row: 3 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 3 sc (36)

22-24 rows (3 rows): 36 sc (36)

25 row: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)

26 row: 30 sc (30)

We fill the tummy with filler, you can pour a little glass granulate. We retreat 5 rows down, 9 loops from the marker to the left (for the left foot) and to the right (for the right foot) - insert the cotter pins of the upper legs, twist.

27 row: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

28 row: 24 sc (24)

29 row: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)

We fill the body with filler to the end. We insert a cotter pin with a disk for attaching the head (I have a disk with a diameter of 30 mm).

30 row: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)

31 row: dec x 6 (6)

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip.

The marker for the beginning of the row runs along the middle of the lower part of the head.

1 row: ch 2, in the first loop 6 sc (6)

2 row: inc x 6 (12)

3rd row: sc, inc x 3, 4 sc, inc x 3, sc (18)

4 row: 2 sc, inc x 3, 8 sc, inc x 3, 2 sc (24)

5 row: 3 sc, inc x 3, 12 sc, inc x 3, 3 sc (30)

6-8 rows (3 rows): 30 sc (30)

9 row: 5 sc, inc, 2 sc, (inc, sc) x 3, inc x 2, (sc, inc) x 3, 2 sc, inc, 5 sc (40)

10 row: 6 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 9, inc, 6 sc (50)

11 row: 50 sc (50)

12 row: 9 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc) x 2, 6 sc, (inc, 5 sc) x 2, inc, 9 sc (56)

13 row: 56 sc (56)

14 row: 15 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 15 sc (60)

15-21 rows (7 rows): 60 sc (60)

22nd row: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54)

23 row: 54 sc (54)

24 row: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

25 row: 48 sc (48)

26 row: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (42)

27 row: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

28 row: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)

29 row: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

We insert the cotter pin of the body between the 16th and 17th rows, on the marker line, twist. We fill the head with filler.

30 row: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)

31 row: (sc, dec) x 6 (12)

We fill the head with filler to the end.

32 row: dec x 6 (6)

We fasten the thread, cut it.

The row start marker in this part can be left unaligned.

1 row: 2 ch, in the first loop: 6 sc (6)

2 row: inc x 6 (12)

3 row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

4-6 rows (3 rows): 18 sc (18)

We fold the part in half and knit 9 sbn through both canvases.

We fix the thread. We knit the second ear in the same way.

The row start marker in this part can be left unaligned.

1 row: ch 2, in the first loop 6 sc (6)

2 row: (inc, sc) x 3 (9)

3rd row: 9 sc (9)

Cut the thread, fasten.

Underlip

1 row: 2 ch, in the first loop 3 sc (3)

2nd row: ch, turn, 3 sc (3)

Cut the thread, fasten.

"Iris" from Vita cotton, hook 1 mm.

1 row: 5 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 3 sc, 3 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (10)

2nd row: inc, 2 sc, inc x 3, 2 sc, inc x 2 (16)

3 row: sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, (sc, inc) x 2, 3 sc, inc, sc, inc (22)

4-5 rows (2 rows): 22 sc (22)

We fasten the thread, cut it off, leaving a small end for sewing.

Decor

On the muzzle of the bear, we approximately outline the points of tightening for the eyes and mouth. My mouth point is located 4 rows below from the beginning of knitting near the marker, eyes - between the 8th and 9th rows, between the eyes - 4 sc. The tightening point for the spout is between the 3rd and 4th rows between the eye.

We insert the needle into the point of tightening the mouth and bring it out to the point of the right eye. We retreat the column, insert the needle, withdraw it at the point of the mouth, tighten it. Repeat the tightening several times, pulling the thread. Similarly, we pull the left eye, slightly pull the points of the eye to each other, forming the bridge of the nose.

We withdraw the needle at the point of the mouth. We insert the needle at the point of tightening the nose (the thread goes over the canvas), we bring it out at the point of the mouth, we tighten the thread. We repeat the tightening several times, we fasten the tightenings with a strong knot, except for the ends of the threads.

We sew the lower lip (the corner (the beginning of knitting the lip) is applied to the point of tightening the mouth). We sew on the spout, stuffing it a little with filler, with the same thread you can embroider a jumper between the cheeks. We sew on the ears in any position you like, sew on the tail.

You can slightly tint the mouth and around the eye (I did not tint the brown bear). We fasten the eyes, above and below the eye we glue a suede cord - eyelids. It seemed to me that my lace was a bit thick, so I cut off a bit of the thickness of the cord for the upper eyelid, and for the lower one I cut the width as well. We knit eyebrows right on the head of the bear - 1 row of sc, clinging to the columns of the head.

Adelia "Valeri", needles 3.5 mm

We collect 9 loops on the knitting needles, knit with an English elastic band 1x1

1st row: chrome., (1 out., 1 persons.) x to the end of the row, chrome.

2nd row: chrome., (the loop knitted in the previous row of the wrong side, we knit the front one, we make a crochet and together with it we remove the next loop untied) x to the end of the row, chrome.

3rd row: chrome., (in front of the loop, which we knitted in the 2nd row with the front, we make a crochet and remove it untied, the next loop, together with the yarn hanging on it, we knit the front for the front wall) x to the end of the row, chrome.

We repeat the 3rd row to the required length of the scarf (my bear has a scarf of 25 cm). We knit the last row as the first, close the loops, hide the ends of the threads. We tie a scarf to a teddy bear.

Adelia "Valeri", needles 3.5 mm. We collect 64 loops on stocking or circular knitting needles, knit in a circle.

1-7 rows (7 rows): (k2, p2) x 16 (64)

8 row: all loops of faces. (64)

9 row: 16 knit., 10 loops to close, 11 knit., 10 loops to close, 15 faces. (44)

10th row: K16, cast on 10 sts, knit 12, cast on 10 sts, knit 16. (64)

11 row: all loops of faces. (64)

Starting from the next row, we decrease by knitting 3 loops together as follows: slip the 2nd loop of three on the right knitting needle, knit the 1st and 3rd loops together with the front one, pull the resulting loop through the 2nd loop on the right knitting needle.

12 row: 7 persons., 3 persons. together, (13 persons., 3 persons. together) x 3, 6 persons. (56)

13 row: all loops of faces. (56)

14 row: (3 persons together, 11 persons) x 4 (48)

15 row: all loops of faces. (48)

16 row: 5 persons., 3 persons. together, (9 persons., 3 persons. together) x 3, 4 persons. (40)

17 row: all loops of faces. (40)

18 row: (3 persons together, 7 persons) x 4 (32)

19 row: all loops of faces. (32)

20 row: 3 persons., 3 persons. together, (5 persons., 3 persons. together) x 3, 2 persons. (24)

21 row: all loops of faces. (24)

22nd row: (3 persons together, 3 persons) x 4 (16)

23 row: all loops of faces. (16)

24 row: (1 persons., 3 persons. together) x 4 (8)

We cut the thread, tighten the remaining 8 loops, fasten the thread, hide the tip.

We knit with a thin cotton thread, I have “Iris” from Vita cotton, hook 1 mm. Leaf scheme (verbal description below):

1 row: ch 20, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 4 sc, 4 dc, 5 s1n, 5 d2n, 8 dc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 5 s2n, 5 dc, 4 dc, 4 sb, sl-st in the first air loop (45)

2 row: psn, sbn skip, (3 s1n, 3 ch, ss) x in one column, ss, sbn, psn, s1n, (3 s2n, 4 ​​ch, ss) x in one column, ss, sbn, psn, 3 s1n, (3 s2n, 4 ​​ch, ss) x in one column, ss, sbn, psn, s1n, (2 s2n, 4 ​​ch, ss) x in one column, ss, (psn, s1n, s2n) x in one column, (s2n, s1n, psn) x in one column, ss, (ss, 4 ch, 2 s2n) x in one column, s1n, psn, sbn, ss, (ss, 4 ch, 3 s2n) x in one column, 3 s1n, psn, sbn, ss, (ss, 4 ch, 3 s2n) x in one column, s1n, psn, sb, ss, (ss, 3 ch, 3 s1n) x in one column, sbn skip , psn, ss.

We do not cut the thread, we continue to knit the petiole: 5 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: sc, 3 sl-st further along the chain, sl-st in the last loop of the 1st row.

We fix the thread, cut it off, leaving a small end.

Similarly, we knit 6 more leaves of different colors.

With the help of a needle, we stretch the threads left on each leaflet along the petiole and thread it into a wooden bead (I have a bead diameter of 10 mm). We collect all the threads in a bundle, tie it into a knot, cut the threads, lubricate the knot with transparent glue. We sew a composition of leaves on a hat.

We put on a hat for our teddy bear.

Location: Ryazan, Russia.

Traveling for Anna is, first of all, freedom, and then new experiences, places, people. Traveling is a different life, maybe even more real than everyday life. And travel for her is an opportunity to tell other people about the places she has visited, to “infect” them with the dream of visiting them! After all, just sitting in one place is so boring!

Traveling is not just about visiting new places. This is, first of all, expanding your horizons, this is what makes you an interesting person.

How long have you been traveling? Where was your first trip?

It depends on what kind of travel to talk about. The first unconscious (when someone drove you) - seven years, my mother and I flew from Transbaikalia to Moscow, unfortunately, I don’t remember much from it. The first conscious (which I prepared) - in 2005, the whole family went to Arkhipo-Osipovka, the trip was extremely unsuccessful, I don’t “go to such places” anymore. The first blogging (which I describe) - to Kostroma in 2013.

Are you traveling alone or in a team? What qualities of a partner are most important when traveling?

Basically, I travel with someone, the composition of the team may change, but usually they are relatives or friends. It’s just that any trip for me begins with the search for a good, inexpensive hotel in an interesting place, and then the elaboration of details begins, including who is traveling with me, and here it often turns out “who agreed, that and slippers.”

What qualities are important? Probably, first of all, trust, because booking hotels, trains, planes, excursions, and just what we will visit, falls entirely on me, with all the ensuing consequences. True, the thought has been visiting me more and more lately: why not rush somewhere alone?

How do you choose a country (city, place) for your next trip?

When they approve the vacation schedule at work, I just open the map and figure out where I can go on my free days, whether my husband can go by car or if I have to get there on my own, how long it takes. Usually two or three cities “fight” for a place on the tour, the one where there is good, but inexpensive housing wins. And then I start layering museums, interesting places. In almost any city in Russia there are interesting things, there are simply more popular ones, and there are not very famous ones, but when you start to “dig” it always turns out that it is simply impossible to have time to see everything.

Have you been in extreme situations? If so, tell us about the most exciting one.

I'm not extreme at all, so I'm laying straws wherever possible. But still, I managed to get into adventures, but are they extreme? ... The first of the situations was when we got lost on Mangup in the Crimea. We decided to take a shortcut, a path, two steps to the side, there was a forest all around and it was not clear where to go. It's good that Vitya thought to move along the edge of the cliff, as a result, after about an hour, they crawled out into the clearing, I even burst into tears. Since then, no paths.

The second situation is connected with the car, when we just got it right in the middle between Rostov and Voronezh. It’s good that Vitya noticed the signpost to the settlement, so here we are, as in that joke, we reversed along the highway to the turn, got to the village, where the car stopped completely, we didn’t find an electrician (the only one was on a binge), but we bought a battery.

As a result, my uncle saved us, he works in a fairly well-known international corporation, whose people are all over Russia, so we were met by locals, taken to Kulibin, helped to buy spare parts, and after five hours we were driving like nothing never been home. By the way, this whole story was on my birthday, such a kind of present.

How do you navigate new places (GPS, maps, surveys of local residents…)?

By car, the best option is a navigator, if I move on foot, then I like maps in the old fashioned way, if I get completely lost, local residents. True, the locals do not always know what you need. I remember a weekday, half past twelve at night, we were circling in the center of Tula and didn’t know where to go, the locals couldn’t tell until I guessed not to name Orel, but the nearest settlement, then they waved us off and in the end we got to the right track.

Can you break any known stereotype about the places you have visited?

The fact that traveling around Russia is not interesting. Lately, I hear very often that our roads are both expensive and bad, and there is nothing to see. In fact, our roads are not in perfect condition, but quite “horror” is not so common. Yes, and decent hotels can be found for quite sane money, and even look ... I still can’t “close” the Ryazan region, but what can I say about the whole, I have plans not just for a year, for years to come.

Which country (or culture) is closest to you in terms of mentality? Are there places that are completely alien to you?

I am Russian, and that says it all. Yes, and I travel mainly in Russia, I would not attribute Belarus to a completely foreign country either. Why only Russia? For starters, where I want to go, I need a Schengen, but I don’t want to mess around with a visa. Maybe if there were fewer beautiful places in Russia, I would be drawn from my “native land”, but so far I have enough places to travel here too. Although who knows, maybe he will be drawn to a foreign land.

And what about completely alien places. Oddly enough, the Black Sea coast of the Krasnodar Territory. I know that again many people will “throw slippers”, but this is the only region of Russia where I “did not take root”, I tried three times in different places, in different conditions, but the result is the same, ruined vacation. So at the family council they decided to “tie up” with this region.

What is the main purpose of travel for you? What has changed in your life due to travel?

To be honest, I've been a bank clerk for the last six years, with all that that entails. Therefore, for me, traveling is, first of all, freedom, and then new experiences, places, people. Traveling is a different life, maybe even more real than everyday life. Thanks to travel, I have become more self-confident, more flexible, able to adapt to the realities of today.

Traveling is also a way to tell other people about the places I have visited, to “infect” them with the dream of visiting them!

Which of your travels do you remember the most and why?

I “fall in love” with almost every trip I make, well, at least part of it. Of the latter, Belarus was struck and where you urgently want to return. Why? It’s a difficult question… I have either complete sympathy or antipathy with cities, as with people, and I can’t even explain what it depends on. Here with Kaliningrad and Minsk it turned out "one hundred percent" - my cities, that's why I want to return.

Which places would you like to return to and why?

I have already accumulated a whole "baggage" of such places.

First, Crimea. Everyone likes the sea, and if we add a huge number of various attractions to this, then my love for this region becomes clear. And now, this is perhaps the most patriotic place in all of Russia. Only the Crimeans, having arrived on the continent, can say: “We don’t take Turkish tangerines, let them eat themselves.” Secondly, I also love my Transbaikalia. Baikal is my childhood, my “sea”, my pines, my rivers, my mountains, but now I can’t get there.

From the cities I love provincial Kostroma, carved Kozmodemyansk, strict, intelligent St. Petersburg, mysterious Kaliningrad, perfectly clean Minsk.

11.
Belarus. Mir Castle.

Where are you planning to go in the near future?

Yes, the whole of 2016 is already planned out. Although, in the wake of recent events (the sudden cold of the whole family and the cancellation of the New Year's trip), I am afraid that many things may not happen. And so, the motto of 2016 is “Repetition of the past”! I want to return to my favorite cities, plunge into their atmosphere again, I look forward to meeting with St. Petersburg, Kaliningrad.

We are all different, and what is “good for Foma is not always good for Yeryoma.” Therefore, to advise something is a thankless task, it is better to just talk about the places where you have been, and the readers themselves will choose what is really closer and more interesting to them.

And I can wish and advise only one thing: travel, and it doesn’t matter whether it’s in Russia or not, in any case, this is a great opportunity to discover the World for yourself!

Compiling this collection, we could not have thought that on the Internet there are so many different crocheted dolls.

What skills do you need to crochet a doll?

1. Firstly, it is worth learning how to knit an "amigurumi ring", because almost all parts of small toys are knitted on its basis. Thanks to this method, there are no holes at the base of round parts. And these toys look much neater.
2. Secondly, you need to be able to knit in a spiral, without lifting loops. When you knit a single crochet piece with lifting stitches, what is called a seam remains. Sometimes it can be hidden, for example, on the head under the doll's hair, and on the arms and legs it will look unprofessional.
3. Thirdly, you need to decide on the eyes, what kind of eyes you will make for the doll. No wonder they say that the eyes are the mirror of the soul. It is from the eyes that the realism of the finished toy, its soul, will depend. To get started, you can make bead eyes, buy ready-made eyes in the store. But the top of perfection will be embroidered eyes or drawn using a special technique. Some needlewomen share their secrets for creating eyes. You can find videos like this on youtube.
4. Fourthly, to create a frame doll, you will have to learn the basics of working with wire.
5. Fifth, you will need desire and a good mood! And also our selection to help you. Of course, we could not embrace all the dolls that needlewomen knit and show on the expanses of our and foreign Internet. But we tried to show some interesting specimens. The main thing is that all of them have a detailed description and diagrams.

Dolls in our selection:

• soft, they can't stand on their own
• skeleton dolls (they have a wire frame inside, they should not be given to small children)
• interior dolls
• small dolls - amigurumi
• large dolls, most often without a frame
• dolls - animals
• dolls girls and dolls boys
• fabulous, cartoon characters (like Santa Claus or Pinocchio).

Dolls are loved not only by children, but also by adults. This toy can be a great gift for your family and friends. Many needlewomen even successfully earn money by selling their dolls.

Crochet dolls, the work of our readers

For a long time, the idea of ​​knitting a neat little ballerina was spinning in my head - with miniature pointe shoes, a tiny tutu and always a big bun :)) At first, the idea was figurative, not designed into specific shapes. Then I started experimenting, bandaged the nth
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Dear craft friends! I would like to wish everyone a lifetime of LOVE, and give a small gift - MK "Couple in Love" I would be glad if this MK is useful to anyone, and I wish everyone light loops and beautiful gifts for the holiday! Us
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Good day, dear needlewomen and readers of the site! Recently, toys related to the description of the baby doll Yo-Yo have become very popular. I also did not stand aside and knitted such a doll for my daughter. Design options
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Hello! I want to show one more version of my performance of a baby yo-yo - the easiest, in my opinion! According to the basic description, a doll is knitted, and only a hat and a scarf are removable ornaments. See the description of the baby doll Yo-Yo at the link At the same time, accessories
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I welcome everyone! Recently, I have been very interested in creating interior toys and now I want to introduce you to such a cute baby owlet! Baby doll is crocheted from wool mixture, crocheted No. 2, movable handles - on a thread mount. Clothes - hat and dress
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The author of the description is Tatyana Sakadina. My daughter asked me to give her a Lalalupsy doll for her birthday, and specifically the Sailor. I decided to make such a doll for her myself. Knitted from a photo. In the course of knitting, I made a description, which I put on
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Original diagram and description in English http://stitch.hellooperator.net/free-patterns/amigurumi-doll/ Materials: I used cotton, which is suitable for knitting with a 3mm crochet. Body, dress and boots are crocheted with the same yarn, crochet 3.5mm (I don't have a description)
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Doll Marina crochet from Alexandra Yankovskaya

INTRODUCTION The level of complexity of the master class is simple, i.e. even a beginner knitter can easily cope with it. To knit a toy according to this description, you need to know how to do: 1. Amigurumi ring (or magic, sliding, magic ring) 2. Posts without

Doll Twig crochet from Alexandra Yankovskaya

Baby doll Twig The level of complexity of the master class is simple, i.e. even a beginner knitter can easily cope with it. To knit a toy according to this description, you need to know how to perform: a) adding / decreasing loops according to the circle rule b) amigurumi ring (or magic, sliding,

Doll Gerda. Tied according to the master class of Martina's doll. Apparently the hook and threads are thinner than in the description. Our height is 25 instead of 38 cm. Hook 1.5, cotton threads. Doll author: Sandrine CAMPANA. The author has a doll about 38 cm, 100% yarn

Crochet dolls, toys from the Internet

Yoka doll. Master class from Larisa Glinchak.

I made all the calculations for hook No. 1.25 and Iris yarn, from which, in fact, my Yoki are knitted. The height of the dolls is 13 cm without hair.
With "tails" about 16cm. Acrylic hair Semenovskaya "Carolina".
I have never met such dolls on the Internet before, namely Yoki, so I decided to show you how I knitted them, maybe it will come in handy for someone. So let's go?

Yoka, unlike many other dolls (this is the first time I met this) is knitted with half-columns with crochets, and not with the usual single crochets.

Knitted crochet dolls in a beret

Doll size: 34 cm. It is crocheted No. 2.5 or 3.

Knitted crochet dolls "Little ladies"

Crochet Candy Doll

You will need:

• nude yarn,
• yarn (small hanks) for hair and clothes,
• hook,
• filler for toys (holofiber),
• sewing needle,
• plastic eyes for dolls
• beads or other decorative items.

Abbreviations used in the description:

V. n. - air loop
sc - single crochet
pst - double crochet
ssn - double crochet
ss4n - a column with four crochets
ss - connecting post
An increase from one loop - we knit two columns
Decrease - we knit two columns together (with a common top)

For knitting you will need:

1. 1. Yarn
   Yarn Art Jeans: 03 - milky; 07 - beige; 20 - pink; 62 - white; 68 - jeans.
   Alize Baby Wool: 19 - water lily; 62 - cream.
   Alize Cotton Gold:87 - charcoal grey.
2. Hook number 2.
3. Holofiber filler.
4. Puppet tresses.
5. Screw eyes 5 mm.
6. Cardboard (for insoles).
7. Buttons and beads for decoration.

Doll ALSENA. Summer fairy. Author Epic Kawaii

Doll crochet Cutie. Description from Nadezhda Volkova

For the body, we need Alize Coton Gold yarn, 50 g, hook 2. We start knitting from the head-torso, we knit with single crochets.

Doll Crochet Blotter. Author Larisa Klinchak

This doll has only three knitted body parts - head, torso and feet.
In order to knit them, we need hook No. 1.75 and flesh-colored yarn of suitable thickness for the hook and quite a bit of colored yarn for shoes.
My Blotters are knitted with Magic Baby yarn, 100% acrylic, 50g/185m.

Crochet doll Claire. Author Diana Yashnikova

Such a doll contacted. The appearance was easy to come up with, but with the execution of the details I had to be a little smarter, since there is still little experience in crocheting. Here's what happened in the end. The description is below, if someone is interested in just such a variant of the chrysalis.

For knitting you will need:

• Alpina Vera 100gr/300m cotton with acrylic nude 1 skein, Lanoso Alara yarn 50g/140m cotton with acrylic light green, dark green and orange
• Hook No. 3, knitting needles No. 3.5 and 3
• Ribbon and 2 buttons

Crochet Tilda doll (description by Alona Rabinovich)

The height of the doll is 34 cm. An excellent description for those who like Tilda, but their hands cannot be sewn. If you know how to crochet, then try to crochet this legendary doll.

Doll in striped stockings. Author Lyubov Yerlygaeva

The height of the doll is 24 cm. She cannot stand without support, but she sits wonderfully :)

Required:

• Acrylic threads 330m/100g (choose your own colors)
• Hook No. 2-2.5
• Filler

Legend:
vp - air loop
sc - single crochet
pr - increase, knit twice in one loop
dec - decrease, knit two loops together
ss - connecting post
ssn - double crochet

Notes: Pieces are knitted in a spiral over the two walls of the loop, inflated as you knit, unless otherwise indicated.

Crochet chrysalis Chamomile. Description by Anna Sadovskaya.

We suggest you knit a gentle and airy girl Chamomile.
From a thin thread, the girl turns out to be quite tiny, but if you take thicker yarn, the pupa will be taller.
The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.

Crochet doll singer VIOLETTA.

You will need:

• Yarn pink, red, gray, black, purple, white, brown
• Hook 2.5
• metal wire
• eye beads
• Darning needle
• Filler synthetic winterizer

Crochet doll Molly. Translated by Tatyana Matyushkova

For the doll you will need:

• yarn Gazal Baby Cotton (50gr/225m)
• safety eyes 12 mm
• filler
• hook number 2
• buttons
• ribbon

Crochet Lalaloopsy doll. Author Natalia Gorodnaya

Materials:

1. yarn of the main skin color - in the photo Alize cotton gold is milky, the growth will be about 20 cm (I will knit from alize bella milky)
2. yarn of other colors for dresses, accessories, hair (it is better to take wool for hair, it is lighter and more airy)
3. hook of the right size (I have #2)
4. wire for the frame (it is possible without it), if there is no frame, then we prepare cotton swabs, glue, adhesive tape to fix the head
5. buttons for the eyes of a suitable size, (the doll in the photo has 8-9 mm)
6. filler

Elsbet crochet doll

Size 43 cm. The doll is crocheted No. 6.

crochet princess doll

Material: yarn 30% acrylic, 30% polyamide, 40% wool, hook number 3, 2 safety eyes 1 cm in diameter, filler, large eye needle.

PIN UP PUKHLYASH from MISS HOOK. Translation - Lyuba Kostyunina

To knit a doll you will need:

• hooks No. 5 and 3.5 cm
• yarn 5 colors and a little red floss for the lips
• needles for embroidery with a blunt end
• scissors
• roulette
• stitch markers
• eyes 2 pcs 12 mm

Doll - puff crochet

Knitting density: 4 sc = 2.5 cm.
Knit in the round, marking the first loop of the row with a marking thread.

The doll is about 43 cm tall.

Materials:

1. 180 m (200 yds) body color or peach
2. A little green yarn (letter A) and grape color (letter B) for a dress
3. dark brown yarn for hair,
4. Pink yarn for lips and handbags,
5. Yellow and green yarn for flowers and leaves.
6. Hook F (3.75 mm) or G (4 mm)
7. 90 cm (1 yard) tape 10 mm wide
8. beads
9. Filler
10. Black eyes with a diameter of 9.5 and glue. Eyes can be embroidered.

Naughty doll girl with an umbrella ... Translation by Anastasia Dudnik

Difficulty: medium.
The height of the doll is 40-50 cm.

For knitting you will need:

• yarn Yarn Nako Pirlant. Colors: white, green, nude, black, pink, yellow
• hook number 3
• wire
• toy filler

Crochet Lily doll from Carola Herbst

Translation - Lyubov Komkova.

Doll boy Leva crochet

For the body, we need Alize cotton gold yarn (milky, light beige, powder or another flesh color), you can take arn art jeans (the thickness is the same as that of alize). Hook 2.5 The yarn can actually be any, the one that is available to you, the main thing is to choose the color and the hook that suits the yarn.

Crochet doll with a set of clothes

The doll is crocheted from yarn 30% acrylic, 30% polyamide, 40% wool crochet No. 3. You will also need 2 safety eyes with a diameter of 1 cm, filler, a needle with a large eye.

Crochet doll Alicia. Translation bysinka738

The size of the finished doll is 40 cm.

To knit a doll you will need:

• acrylic yarn 250m/100g in the following colors:
• purple, blue, white.
• Yarn 600g / 100m red, hooks No. 2.5 and 3
• Filler for toys
• Tapestry needle
• Artificial eyes with a diameter of 12mm
• Wire for the frame - 20 cm.
• Dry blush.

Crochet doll Rose from Zabbez

Anni - crochet amigurumi doll

Anni - amigurumi doll Technique: crochet, amigurumi Size: height 25 cm Materials: yarn, filler, hook, needle Girls of all ages love dolls - they are so beautiful, with a variety of clothes, they can be combed and dressed up. And play take off - a pleasure. Knitted dolls

We crochet the simplest frame doll

The author of the description of Vesnukhin from the Country of Mothers. Based on this description, you can create your own unique frame doll. Lira yarn was used for knitting. The doll turned out to be about 13 cm. The insole for the feet can be cut out of plastic covers. The simplest frame

To crochet a doll, you will need the following materials: Kartopu organica (body color) - K1216 Kartopu organica (white color) - K010 Gazzal Baby cotton - 3426 Yarnart jeans - 29/562 1.75 mm hook scissors filler (for

Doll author: Yulia Suleimanova. The size of the doll is 35-37 cm. For knitting a doll, materials are needed: The main version of YarnArt JEANS, a description and a photo will follow it. An additional version of Krokha Troitskaya, I will simply show for comparison. I want to see the difference and

Description by natta_toys. We knit the head 1 6sc in ka 2 6inc 3 1sc, inc*6 4 2sc, inc*6 5 3sc, inc*6 6 4sc, inc*6 7 5sc, inc*6 8 6sc, inc*6 9 7sc, inc*6 10 8sc, inc*6 11-17 60sc 18 8sc, dec*6 19 7sc, dec*6 20 6sc, dec*6 21 5sc, dec*6 22 4sc, dec*6 23 3sc, dec*6 24 2sc, dec * 6 leave the thread for sewing, fasten the eyes in 13-14 rows at a distance of 5 loops,

Materials: yarn of similar thickness and suitable hook, eyes, filler, glue, beads for the rim. I used blue and white from the Katia Amigurumi set, hair - Pekhorka Children's cotton, head - Lira Vita cotton. Legend:

Translation by Elena Kraft. How to crochet a beautiful doll.

Video - master classes on creating crochet dolls

How to crochet a doll. Master class from Victoria

How to embroider eyes on a doll

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How to tie realistic doll eyes

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I’m sitting in Odnoklassniki, not touching anyone, and here Galya: “Anya, I need to write about myself.” Yes, writing about myself is still the same task ... I can talk about others, especially on emotions, but about myself ... What can be interesting about me? Everything is like everyone else: home, family, work, “cockroaches” in my head. But "the party said - it is necessary, the Komsomol answered - there is." Will have to try.

I was born at the turn of the 70-80s in the small village of Klichka in Transbaikalia. I lived there for up to eight months, and then my mother and I returned to my grandparents. So I don’t remember my small homeland.
We lived further in Byrka - a steppe village in the south of the Chita region. This is my first home. I remember how we climbed the mountain to look around, but while you climb, you will have time to overeat “hare cabbage” and collect a bag of Bogorodsk grass ordered by my grandmother (since then I have been adore tea with thyme - the taste of childhood).
I remember how much I loved it when my grandfather took me fishing. Grandfather replaced my father, this is my everything, and for him I forever remained the most beloved granddaughter. Grandpa had a very interesting fate, including the front, and, like most boys of that time, he did not receive a higher education, but he was very well-read and smart, and we loved to “scribble” about everything in the world. Unfortunately, it no longer exists..
And on our Oglovskaya there were only two children - me and Seryozhka Danilov, and so that's why I started reading very early, and read avidly.

This is how we lived, didn’t grieve, and then the whole family “breaks down”: grandfather and grandmother move to Novopavlovka, and my mother and I leave for Ryazan. Imagine what it is like for a village girl to be in a large, then still in one of the cleanest cities in the USSR?! I fell in love with Ryazan, and even more so here everything was nearby, at hand, and my mother and I “came off”: we visited all the children's performances and all the performances in the Ryazan circus. But we lived with relatives, and then my grandmother began to get sick, so we returned to Novopavlovka. And Ryazan remained an unattainable dream for me.

Novopavlovka, then a village that stood among the forests, became my second home. That's where my love for mountains and pine forests comes from. It was great to lie on a stone above the trains and look at Khilok and the taiga going into the distance. And we also loved to run into the forest for mushrooms (since then I just love mushrooms), for berries. In the autumn, pine nuts were brought in, and we ate this delicacy all winter. And our famous frosts are up to forty degrees, but on the other hand, the sun does not hide behind the clouds in winter, and the snow crunches underfoot all winter. And my wonderful mother also took us on hikes, played Indians with us, and simply drove us to the regional center to theaters and museums. This is how my childhood passed.

After graduating from school, I, of course, went to study in Ryazan - this is my third homeland. A shy "country of birch calico" with blue ribbons of rivers and a beautiful necklace of Meshchersky lakes. In Ryazan I graduated from our Radio Engineering Academy, got married, my son was born, my sun, my love, my pride. When he grew up, we started traveling. At first, like everyone else - “at sea”, then Moscow was added, and then it started ...
At some point, I wanted to share with others, so I started posting photos on Odnoklassniki. So “at the Zadorozhny Museum” Galya and I met. She offered to write about trips, I tried, but you know the result: now not a single trip is complete without a story.
Traveling for me is a way to escape from work, escape to another life, and also get in touch with my favorite story. Yes, and the very preparation for the trip is no less fun than she herself: climb the World Wide Web, find all the reviews, photos, sights. What could be more interesting?
And recently I began to discover such a close, but unfamiliar Ryazan region. My third homeland turned out to have so many interesting, beautiful places!

This is how I live, like everyone else: home, work, “my cockroaches” in my head, and also trips around our boundless Motherland, Mother Russia.

Description by Anna Sadovskaya

We suggest you knit a gentle and airy girl Chamomile. From a thin thread, the girl turns out to be quite tiny, but if you take thicker yarn, the pupa will be taller.

Dear English speaking friends! Free pattern in English is in my group on the Facebook

For knitting you will need:

1. For the body Pekhorka "Openwork" (100% mercerized cotton, 280 m / 50 g) - a little flesh color No. 068, a little white, yellow and green for clothes, a 1.25 mm hook.
2. For hair Kamteks "Karakul stretch" (44% wool, 44% acrylic, 10% cotton, 2% lycra, 145 m / 100 g) - a little white.
3. For the flower Vita cotton "Coco" (100% mercerized cotton, 240 m / 50 g) - 10 g of white and a little green, hook 1.5 mm. For the middle “Kuzya Klubochkin” from Color City or any other similar thread, for example, Alize “Softy”, Lanoso “Puf”, etc., hook 6 mm. For stability, you need some kind of weighting agent, something flat and heavy enough, no more than 4 cm in diameter, I used coins that I laid between two circles cut out of dense plastic. The chrysalis is attached to the flower with the help of an elastic band (spandex), you need quite a bit.
4. Filler (holofiber).
5. Copper wire with a section of 1 mm for the frame of the chrysalis (65 cm) and wire for beading with a diameter of 0.3 mm for the frame of the flower petals.
6. Eyes 5 mm, eyelashes, some white felt.
7. Optionally - dry pastel for tinting, you can tint in any other way you are used to.

When using these materials, the doll is 14 cm tall

You can ask any questions about the description on our forum

Abbreviations

sc- single crochet

ub- decrease (2 sb knit together)

etc- increase (knit 2 sc from one)

ss- connecting column

vp- air loop

psn- half-column with a crochet

PRpsn- increase from psn (knit 2 psn from one)

UBpsn- decrease from psn (knit 2 psn together)

s1n- a column with one crochet

s2n- a column with two crochets

The toy is knitted in a spiral, without connecting posts and lifting loops.

The description of the knitting of this toy is based on the fact that the beginning of the row does not shift throughout the knitting of the entire part and runs in a straight line, but since we knit in a spiral, without lifting loops and a connecting column, the beginning of the row will shift to the right, therefore, every 4- 5 rows need to be knitted at the end of the row with an additional offset column so that the beginning of the row is again in the same place. These additional columns in the description of the rows are not taken into account.

Thanks to this way of presenting the description, you will always know exactly where you need to get increases or decreases, and the elbow / knee will always be exactly where they should be. The offset of the beginning of the row when knitting in a spiral can differ for different yarns and with different knitting density, so the alignment of the marker makes the description universal - from any yarn, in any hands, you will get exactly the part that it should be.

Crochet handles

The marker for the beginning of the row runs along the middle of the outer side of the arm.

2 row: (inc, sc) x 3 (9)

3rd row: 9 sc (9)

4 row: s2n, 8 sbn (9) - when knitting the first sbn after s2n, the column with two crochets is folded in half, forming a bump - a thumb.

5 row: (sc, dec) x 3 (6)

6 row: 6 sc (6)

7 row: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

8-15 rows (8 rows): 8 sc (8)

16 row: 3 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc (10)

17-22 rows (6 rows): 10 sc (10)

For the left handle we knit 1 more sc, for the right handle - 6 sc. We fasten the thread, cut it.

We measure 12 cm of wire with a cross section of 1 mm, bend one end, wrap it with adhesive tape. Insert into the handle. We fill the handle with filler at the top.

Crochet legs

The marker for the beginning of the row runs along the middle of the inside of the leg.

We start knitting with white thread.

1 row: ch 4, from the 2nd loop from the hook: inc, sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: sc, inc (10)

2 row: inc, 3 sc, inc x 2, 3 sc, inc (14)

3-4 rows (2 rows): 14 sc (14)

5 row: (dec, 5 sc) x 2 (12)

6 row: 12 sc (12)

RIGHT LEG OF THE PUPULE

7 row: sc, ch 4, skip 4 sc, 7 sc (12)

8 row (we knit the heel): dec x 6 (first sc in the foot, then 4 sc in the chain and 7 sc in the foot)

We attach the thread to the column between the heel and foot on the side of the marker and knit the LEG:

1 row: sc in the gap between the heel and foot, 4 sc in the foot, sc in the gap between the foot and heel, 4 sc along the chain of the 7th row (10)

4 row: 7 sc, inc x 2, sc (12)

11 row (behind the back wall of the loop): 2 sc, inc x 2, 6 sc (12)

12 row: 9 sc, inc x 2, sc (14)

13 row: 14 sc (14)

1 row: (sc, inc) x 5 (15)

2nd row: (ch, sl-st) x 15

14 row: 2 sc, dec x 2, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc (14)

15-21 rows (7 rows): 14 sc (14)>

We fasten the thread, cut it. We fill the leg with filler.

LEFT LEG

7 row: 7 sc, 4 ch, 4 sc skip, sc (12)

8 row (we knit the heel): dec x 6 (7 sc in the foot, then 4 sc in the chain and sc in the foot)

We fix the thread, cut it off, tighten the remaining hole.

We attach the thread to the 4th air loop of the chain of the 7th row and knit the LEG:

1 row: 4 sc along the chain of the 7th row, sc in the gap between the heel and foot, 4 sc in the foot, sc in the gap between the foot and heel (10)

2-3 rows (2 rows): 10 sc (10)

4 row: sc, inc x 2, 7 sc (12)

We measure 20 cm of wire with a cross section of 1 mm, bend one end according to the shape of the foot, wrap it with adhesive tape. We insert into the leg. We fill the leg with filler.

5-9 rows (5 rows): 12 sc (12)

10 row: 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (10)

We change the thread to a solid, white thread until we cut it.

11 row (behind the back wall of the loop): 6 sc, inc x 2, 2 sc (12)

12 row: sc, inc x 2, 9 sc (14)

13 row: 14 sc (14)

We turn the knitting with the leg away from us and with the left white thread we tie the golf jacket for the front half loops of the 10th row:

1 row: (sc, inc) x 5 (15)

2nd row: (ch, sl-st) x 15

We fix the thread, cut it, hide the tip. We bend the lapel down. We fill the leg with filler. We continue to knit the leg:

14 row: inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, dec x 2, 2 sc (14)

15-21 rows (7 rows): 14 sc (14)

We fill the leg with filler. We do not cut the thread, we continue knitting, connecting the legs into a BODY:

22 row: ch 2, 14 sb on the right leg, sb on the chain, put the marker of the beginning of the row here, now the beginning of the row will be here (middle of the back), in the process of knitting we align the marker.

23rd row: sb in the chain, (13 sb, inc) on the left leg, 2 sb in the chain, inc, 12 sb, inc, sb (35)

We connect the wires from the legs together, wrap them with adhesive tape.

24 row: sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 15 sc (38)

25-32 rows (8 rows): 38 sc (38)

33 row: 15 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 15 sc (36)

34-35 rows (2 rows): 36 sc (36)

36 row: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)

37-45 rows (9 rows): 30 sc (30)

We fill the body with filler.

46 row: 5 sbn, 4 sbn together with the left handle (we count 4 sbn from the last column of the handle and start knitting from the 4th column), 12 sbn, 4 sbn together with the right handle (we count 4 sbn from the last column of the handle and start knitting from the 4th column), 5 sc (30)

47 row: 5 sbn, 6 sbn on the free loops of the left handle, 12 sbn, 6 sbn on the free loops of the right handle, 5 sbn (34)

We connect the wires from the handles with the wires from the legs and wrap them with adhesive tape. All 4 wires will go to the neck and then to the head.

48-49 rows (2 rows): 34 sc (34)

50 row: 22 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, 5 sc (32)

51 row: 5 sc, dec, 3 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 3, sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, sc (25)

52 row: sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 2 sc, dec, sc, 3 sc together, sc, dec, sc (17)

We fill the body with filler.

53 row: sc, dec, sc, 3 sc together, (2 sc, dec) x 2, 2 sc (12)

54 row: 2 sc, dec, 8 sc (11)

55 row: 11 sc (11)

We fix the thread, cut it off, leaving a small end for sewing to the head.

We knit the head of the doll

The marker of the beginning of the row runs along the middle of the back of the head.

1 row: 6 sc in the amigurumi ring (6)

2 row: inc x 6 (12)

3 row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

7 row: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

9-15 rows (7 rows): 48 sc (48)

16 row: 15 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 15 sc (44)

17-20 rows (4 rows): 44 sc (44)

21 row: 13 sc, (inc, sc) x 2, inc, 8 sc, inc, (sc, inc) x 2, 13 sc (50)

22-24 rows (3 rows): 50 sc (50)

Now we will attach the doll's hair. The principle of hair fastening is shown on the head of another chrysalis.

On a book, notebook, sheet of cardboard or any other suitable template, we wind Kamteks Karakul Stretch yarn and cut it (the length of the cut thread is up to you - what length of hair you want to get).

We fasten the hair as follows: we insert the hook from the inside of the head to the beginning of knitting (amigurumi ring) and bring it out, we hook the “hair” folded in half in the middle and bring the loop inside the head. We retreat the desired gap and stick the hook into the next column, again we pick up the “hair” and bring it inside the head, drag it through the loop on the hook. Then we act in the same way, picking up new "hairs" and stretching them inside the head, on the wrong side of the head, a chain of loops is formed. Each time we pull the previous strand so that all the loops of the chain lie as close as possible to the head.

We fasten the hair up to the 8th row, inclusive, starting from the beginning of knitting, each time skipping one row and one column. Keep in mind that with this method of fixing the hair, the hair turns out to be quite thick.

With any contrasting thread, we mark the location of the hair, taking into account the fact that the marker of the beginning of the row runs along the middle of the back of the head.

We continue to fasten the hair inside this contour, skipping 2 columns and 3 rows. At the border of the contour, we fasten the hair through 1 column and through 1 row. At the end, we fasten the last loop on the hook by sewing it with a sewing thread.

We continue knitting the head.

25 row: 3 sc, dec, 8 sc, (dec, sc) x 2, dec, 8 sc, dec, (sc, dec) x 2, 8 sc, dec, 3 sc (42)

26 row: 42 sc (42)

27 row: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

28 row: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)

29 row: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

30 row: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, sc (18)

We fill the head with filler.

31 row: (sc, dec) x 5, dec x 2 (grab the sc of the next row)

We fix the thread, cut it off, leaving a small end for embroidering the spout.

Doll face decoration

My face design is just one of the options, you can decorate this doll in your own way.

With a chain stitch with flesh-colored thread, we embroider the outline of the eyelet. Without tearing off the thread, we knit 1 row of sc along the contour, for the right ear we begin to knit from below, for the left - from above.

With the thread left after knitting the head, we embroider the spout. We visually determine the middle of the face and draw the thread between the 20th and 21st rows one column to the right of this middle. We retreat to the left two columns and make a few stitches, forming a spout. The stitches lie freely, we do not tighten anything.

Cut out squirrels from felt in the form of circles, slightly larger in diameter than the eyes used. Glue the pupae to the head (the eyes are located between the 17th and 20th rows of the head). Glue the eyelashes (I took the shortest eyelashes that I had, and even cut them a little). Embroider the mouth and eyebrows. You can slightly brown the cheeks with any tinting method that is familiar to you.

We knit shoes for amigurumi

We knit with a thread of the same thickness with which the pupa itself was knitted.

1 row: ch 5, from the 2nd loop from the hook: inc, 2 sc, 4 sc in the last loop, on the other side of the chain: 2 sc, inc (12)

2 row: inc, 3 sbn, PRpsn x 4, 3 sbn, inc (18)

3 row: sb, inc, 5 sb, PRpsn x 4, 5 sb, inc, sb (24)

4 row (behind the back wall of the loop): 8 sc, 8 dc, 8 sc (24)

5 row: 8 sc, 8 dc, 8 sc (24)

6 row: 6 sc, dec, psn, UBpsn, 2 psn, UBpsn, psn, dec, 4 sc, dec (19)

7 row: dec, 7 sc, dec, 8 sc (17)

We fasten the thread, cut it. We change the hook to a smaller one (I took 1 mm) and with a thread of the finishing color we tie the shoe with one row of a crustacean step for the left half-loops of the 3rd row. We fix the thread, cut it off, hide all the ends. We knit the second shoe in the same way.

We knit a sundress for amigurumi

We knit with a thread of the same thickness with which the pupa itself was knitted. We start in yellow.

We collect 32 ch, close in a circle with a connecting column.

1-8 rows (8 rows): 32 sc (32)

9 row (for the front wall of the loop): (ch, sl-st) x 32

We attach a white thread to the first column of the 8th row and knit for the left half loops:

10 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc, inc (39)

11 row (behind the front wall of the loop): sl-st, (14 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 13 sbn, further along the dress: 3 sl-st) x 12, 14 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 13 sbn, 2 ss

12 row (we tie the petals): (skip ss, ss, sb, 9 dc, 2 sb, 2 ch, 2 sb, 9 dc, sb, ss, ss skip, ss) x 13

13 row (for the left half-loops): (3 sl-st on the dress, 18 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc) x 13

14 row (we tie the petals): ((skip st, sl-st) x 2, sb, 13 dc, 2 sb, 2 ch, 2 sb, 13 dc, sb, ss) x 13

We fix the thread, cut it off, leaving a small end for stitching the petals.

The petals on the skirt will curl up, so we need to stitch them. Stepping back a few loops from the top of the skirt, we alternately pick up the upper and lower petals, connecting them to each other.

We fix the thread by pulling the petals a little.

We attach the yellow thread to the 11th loop of the chain of the first row of the dress and knit BEFORE:

1 row: dec, 8 sc, dec (10)

We cut the thread, reattach it to the 1st column of the 1st row in front and knit the 2nd row:

2nd row: dec, 6 sc, dec (8)

We fasten the thread, cut it.

We knit STRAPES: we attach the thread to one edge of the front and pick up a chain of 13 ch, with a connecting column we attach the chain to the back of the sarafan, knit another 1 sl-st along the back and return to the beginning of the chain, knitting 13 sbn, sl-st fasten the strap to the front of the dress. We knit the second strap in the same way. We tie the neck and armholes of the sarafan as follows: (vp, ss) x in each column. We hide all the ends of the threads.

We put on a sarafan for a doll.

We bend the ends of the wire sticking out of the body so that the resulting loop reaches at least the middle of the head, and preferably almost to the back of the head. Cut off excess wire if necessary. We wrap the loop with adhesive tape. We hide all the threads inside the head and sew the head to the body.

Making an amigurumi doll

I knitted the middle of the chamomile from "Kuzya Klubochkin" from Color City, crochet 6 mm:

1 row: 2 ch, in the first loop: 6 sc (6)

2 row: inc x 6 (12)

We change the thread to "Soso" Vita cotton, hook 1.5 mm

3 row: (5 sc in one column) x 12 (60)

In the next row, we begin to knit the upper tier of petals, knitting a beaded wire. To do this, we knit the required number of air loops, apply a wire folded in half. We knit the first column, capturing only one wire (by inserting a hook between two wires). We knit the second and further all the columns to the end of the chain, capturing both wires.

We do not cut the wire, we knit it directly from the coil, each time trying on the length of the segment folded in half along the chain of ch, at the end of the row we cut the wire. We knit the wire in the lower tier of the petals in the same way.

4 row (behind the front wall of the loop, we knit the wire): sl-st, (ch 18, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc, further along the middle: 3 sl-st) x 19, ch 18, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 17 sc, 2 sl-st

5 row (we tie the petals): (skip ss, ss, sb, 13 dc, 2 sb, 2 ch, 2 sb, 13 dc, sb, ss, ss skip, ss) x 20

6 row (for the left half loops, we knit the wire): (3 sl-st in the middle, 22 ch, from the 2nd loop from the hook: 21 sc) x 20

7 row (we tie the petals): ((skip sl-st, sl-st) x 2, sb, 17 dc, 2 sb, 2 ch, 2 sb, 17 dc, sb, sl-st) x 20

We fasten the thread, cut it. We wrap the ends of the wire with adhesive tape. We pass two pieces of spandex into the middle, securing them with knots on the wrong side. The resulting loops will keep our doll on the flower.

We knit the lower part of the flower in green.

1 row: 6 sc in the amigurumi ring (6)

2 row: inc x 6 (12)

3 row: (inc, sc) x 6 (18)

4 row: sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x 5, sc (24)

5 row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)

6 row: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)

7 row: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)

8 row: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)

9 row: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

10 row: 54 sc (54)

11 row: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)

12 row: 60 sc (60)

13 row (for the front wall of the loop): (sc, (psn, s1n, psn) x in one column, sc) x 20

We fix the thread, cut it off, leaving a small end for sewing to the flower. Sew to the chamomile for the left half loops. Inside you need to put some kind of weighting agent. I didn’t find anything suitable and I put the coins, wrapping them with adhesive tape to two mugs of thick plastic.

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